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If you’re shopping for a new air conditioner or heat pump, you’ll probably hear a lot about SEER ratings.

But in 2026, there’s another term you need to know: SEER2.

SEER2 is the current efficiency rating used for new central air conditioners and heat pumps. The higher the number, the more cooling the system can provide for the electricity it uses.

So, what is a good SEER2 rating?

For many homeowners, a system in the 15–17 SEER2 range can offer a strong balance of efficiency and upfront cost. Higher-efficiency systems can go well beyond that, but the highest rating is not automatically the best choice for every home.

Your climate, how often you use your AC, the condition of your ductwork, system sizing, and your budget all matter.

What does SEER2 mean?

SEER2 stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio 2. It measures how efficiently an air conditioner or heat pump cools your home over a typical cooling season.

The U.S. Department of Energy introduced the SEER2 rating system in 2023 along with updated testing procedures designed to better represent real-world operating conditions.

In simple terms:

Higher SEER2 = greater cooling efficiency.

A higher-rated system generally uses less electricity to provide the same amount of cooling as a lower-rated system under comparable conditions.

That can mean lower cooling costs over time, especially in homes where the AC runs frequently.

SEER vs. SEER2: What’s the difference?

SEER and SEER2 measure the same basic thing: seasonal cooling efficiency.

The difference is how the equipment is tested.

SEER2 uses updated Department of Energy testing procedures, including conditions intended to better represent the resistance an HVAC system experiences when moving air through a home’s ductwork. Because the testing method changed, you should not compare a SEER number and a SEER2 number as if they use the exact same scale.

If you’re replacing an older system, you may see its efficiency listed in SEER. When comparing new equipment in 2026, look at the SEER2 rating instead.

What is the minimum SEER2 rating in 2026?

There isn’t one minimum SEER2 rating for every air conditioner in every part of the country.

Federal standards vary based on the type of equipment and, for certain central air conditioners, where the system is installed.

Indiana and Ohio

Indiana and Ohio are part of the federal North region.

For standard split-system central air conditioners, the federal minimum is 13.4 SEER2 for equipment subject to the current standards.

Kentucky

Kentucky is part of the federal Southeast region, where requirements for split-system central air conditioners are higher.

Current minimums are:

• 14.3 SEER2 for split-system air conditioners below 45,000 BTU/h.

• 13.8 SEER2 for split-system air conditioners at or above 45,000 BTU/h.

Heat pumps

Split-system heat pumps use a national standard rather than the same regional AC requirements.

The current federal minimum for a standard split-system heat pump is 14.3 SEER2 for cooling and 7.5 HSPF2 for heating.

Your HVAC professional can confirm which efficiency requirements apply to the specific equipment being installed in your home.

So, what is a good SEER2 rating?

Meeting the minimum standard doesn’t necessarily mean you’ve found the best system for your home.

Here’s a simple way to think about your options:

• Around the minimum: An entry-level option that meets applicable efficiency requirements and may have a lower upfront cost.

• 15–17 SEER2: A strong middle ground for many homeowners looking for better efficiency without automatically moving into the highest-priced equipment.

• 18+ SEER2: High-efficiency equipment that may offer greater energy savings and often includes more advanced system technology.

These are general shopping ranges, not official federal efficiency categories.

The right number depends on how much you’ll actually benefit from the additional efficiency.

Is a higher SEER2 rating always better?

Not necessarily.

A 20 SEER2 system is more efficient on paper than a 15 SEER2 system, but that doesn’t automatically mean it’s the better investment for your home.

Consider:

• How long you plan to stay in the home. More time in the home can give you more opportunity to benefit from energy savings.

• How much your AC runs. Homes with longer or hotter cooling seasons may see more value from higher efficiency.

• Your current energy costs. Higher electricity rates can make efficiency more valuable.

• Your home’s insulation and ductwork. An efficient HVAC system can still lose performance through leaky ducts, poor airflow, or a home that loses conditioned air quickly.

• The upfront cost. The additional energy savings should make sense compared with the additional price of the equipment.

Efficiency matters, but it is only one part of choosing the right system.

How much can a higher SEER2 rating save?

The greater the difference in efficiency between two properly matched systems, the less electricity the higher-SEER2 system should need to produce the same amount of cooling under comparable conditions.

But your SEER2 rating cannot tell you exactly what your utility bill will be.

Actual savings depend on things like:

• Outdoor temperatures

• Thermostat settings

• Electricity rates

• Home size and insulation

• Duct condition

• Equipment sizing

• Installation quality

• How often the system runs

That’s why claims like “doubling your SEER rating will cut your entire energy bill in half” can be misleading. SEER2 applies to cooling efficiency, not every source of energy use in your home.

Does a furnace have a SEER2 rating?

No.

This is an important distinction if you’re replacing a complete HVAC system.

Air conditioners use SEER2 to measure seasonal cooling efficiency.

Heat pumps use SEER2 for cooling efficiency and HSPF2 for heating efficiency.

Gas furnaces use AFUE, or Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency, to measure how efficiently they convert fuel into heat.

So if you’re comparing a complete furnace and air conditioner system, you’ll likely be looking at both an AFUE rating and a SEER2 rating.

What else should you consider besides SEER2?

SEER2 matters, but don’t shop by one number alone.

Proper system sizing

Bigger isn’t automatically better.

An HVAC system should be sized for the home’s heating and cooling needs. An oversized or undersized system can affect comfort, humidity control, efficiency, and equipment performance.

Single-stage, two-stage, or variable-speed operation

Two systems with good efficiency ratings can feel very different inside your home.

Equipment with multiple stages or variable-speed operation can adjust its output instead of operating at full capacity every time it turns on. Depending on the system, that can help maintain more consistent temperatures and humidity levels.

Installation quality

Even highly efficient equipment needs to be installed and set up correctly.

Airflow, refrigerant charge, ductwork, equipment matching, and other installation details can all affect how the system performs once it’s in your home.

Your budget

The goal isn’t to buy the biggest SEER2 number available.

It’s to find the system that gives you the right combination of comfort, efficiency, features, and cost for your home.

Are rebates available for high-efficiency HVAC systems?

They may be.

Utility companies, manufacturers, and local programs can offer rebates or incentives for qualifying high-efficiency equipment. Programs and eligibility requirements change, so check what’s currently available when you’re ready to replace your system.

Your HVAC professional can also help you identify qualifying equipment and understand which incentives may apply.

Choosing the right SEER2 rating for your home

A good SEER2 rating isn’t just the highest number on the equipment label.

It’s the rating that makes sense for your home, your comfort goals, and what you want to spend.

Start by comparing:

• The system’s SEER2 rating

• Upfront equipment and installation costs

• Expected energy use

• System features and comfort benefits

• Warranty coverage

• Your home’s heating and cooling needs

You shouldn’t have to sort through efficiency ratings and equipment options by yourself.

Peterman Brothers can evaluate your home, explain your options in plain language, and help you find a system that fits your comfort and budget.

Get an Estimate for a New HVAC System

You’re not imagining it.

If a repair quote recently made you pause, double-check the number, or wonder if something changed since the last time you needed work done, you’re not alone. Home repairs really do cost more than they did even a few years ago, especially HVAC, plumbing, and electrical repairs, and not just a little more.

What’s frustrating is that the price increase rarely comes with an explanation. A furnace repair or AC repair that used to feel manageable suddenly feels heavy. A replacement that once seemed like a distant future decision now feels urgent. And when you’re standing in your own home trying to make the right call, it’s easy to wonder whether you waited too long… or whether you’re being taken advantage of.

The truth sits somewhere in the middle. Some things about home repair have genuinely changed. Others haven’t. And while no homeowner can control the economy, labor shortages, or material pricing, there are decisions that quietly swing costs up or down long before a technician ever rings the doorbell.

Homeowners often ask why HVAC repairs, furnace replacements, and other home repairs feel so much more expensive now and whether that’s normal.

What Changed And Why Repairs Cost More Now

Prices didn’t jump overnight because of one single event. They rose gradually, piece by piece, across equipment, training, and labor, until the difference became impossible to ignore.

Furnaces, air conditioners, water heaters, and electrical components are more complex and more expensive to repair than they were even a decade ago. Systems that used to rely mostly on mechanical parts now depend on control boards, sensors, and specialized components, the kind you can’t just swap without testing and time.

Labor has changed, too. Skilled trade work takes longer to learn and costs more to do correctly than it used to, especially on newer systems. Modern equipment requires ongoing education, certifications, and hands-on training. At the same time, fewer people are entering the trades, which means the technicians who are qualified carry more responsibility, more training, and more demand than ever before.

Then there’s timing. Emergency HVAC, plumbing, and electrical repairs cost more now, not because companies want them to, but because emergencies limit options. They pull technicians off scheduled work, reduce diagnostic time, and often require immediate access to parts that aren’t always on hand. Waiting doesn’t just increase risk; it narrows choices.

In short, home repair costs have increased because:

What Homeowners Unknowingly Do That Drives Costs Up

Many homeowners unintentionally increase repair costs through timing, not neglect.

Most expensive home repairs don’t start as emergencies. They start as small issues that feel harmless, ignorable, or easy to live with.

One of the biggest cost drivers is waiting for certainty instead of checking early. When something feels “off” but still works, it’s natural to put it off. But systems don’t fail all at once. They drift. Components wear unevenly. Efficiency drops slowly. By the time a clear failure shows up, the fix is often larger because the system has been compensating for a long time.

Another quiet driver is treating a working repair as a final solution. When a system turns back on, it’s tempting to assume the problem is fully resolved. But if the underlying cause isn’t addressed, the same stress remains. Parts wear faster. Failures repeat. What feels like bad luck is often a problem that never fully leaves.

None of this comes from neglect. It comes from living in a home that mostly works until it doesn’t.

Why HVAC and Home Repair Quotes Can Look So Different

When homeowners compare HVAC or home repair quotes, the difference is usually in the problem being solved, not just the price.

One of the most confusing parts of home repair is seeing two quotes for the same problem that don’t even look like they’re for the same house. One feels manageable. The other feels alarming. And without context, it’s easy to assume the higher number means someone is padding the price.

Often, the difference isn’t the price, it’s the scope.

Some quotes are written to restore function. Others are written to prevent the same HVAC or home repair problem from coming back. Both can make the system turn back on. Only one reduces the chance that the issue returns. From the outside, those options can look identical. On paper, they rarely are.

Another factor is how deeply the problem is evaluated. A surface-level inspection may identify the failed part. A deeper diagnostic looks at why that part failed early or under stress. That extra time doesn’t always appear as a separate line item, but it changes the recommendation and the cost.

When prices vary widely, the most important question usually isn’t, “Why is this more expensive?”

It’s, “What problem is this actually solving?”

How to Evaluate a Quote Without Being an Expert

You don’t need to be an expert to get a sense of whether an HVAC or home repair quote is fair. What matters most is whether the explanation makes sense. A solid recommendation should connect the repair to the problem it’s meant to solve, explain what happens if it isn’t addressed, and outline reasonable options without pressure. Clear explanations are often a better signal of value than a low number.

What We’re Doing to Help Homeowners Stay Ahead of Big Repairs

Rising repair costs have pushed many homeowners to look for ways to prevent problems earlier.

As a company, we asked a simple question: how do we help homeowners avoid the situations that lead to the biggest bills in the first place?

For us, the answer has been fairly simple: double down on maintenance across HVAC, plumbing, and electrical. Not as a checklist, but as a way to keep systems running longer and catch problems while they’re still small, correctable, and manageable.

That means spending time looking beyond whether something turns on or off. It means checking how systems perform under real conditions, watching for early signs of strain, imbalance, or wear, even when everything still technically works. The goal isn’t to find problems for the sake of finding them. It’s to spot patterns early, when there’s still time to plan instead of react.

Homes change. Usage changes. Systems age at different rates. Consistent oversight reduces surprises, and fewer surprises mean fewer emergency decisions.

The Bottom Line

If home repairs feel more expensive than they used to, it’s not your imagination, and it’s not always a sign that something is wrong. The landscape has changed. Systems are more complex. Timing matters more. And the difference between a manageable repair and a painful one is often awareness, not luck.

Understanding why costs rise helps remove suspicion from the process. Understanding what you can still control helps remove fear.

And in a world where big repair bills often arrive without warning, clarity is one of the most valuable tools a homeowner can have, especially when decisions feel overwhelming.

If you ever want a second set of eyes on a repair recommendation or have questions about what your home actually needs, our team is always happy to talk things through and help you decide what makes sense for you.

For homeowners seeking clarity about rising repair costs, the key takeaway is that understanding why costs are increasing empowers better decision-making.

The Truth Behind Quick Fixes

A lot of repairs look finished. The wall is smooth. The drip stopped. The outlet works.

But “looks fixed” and “is fixed” are not the same thing.

Most home repair failures come from one thing: the deeper cause never got solved. Someone treated the symptom, not the problem. And because the surface looks better, the home gets put back on autopilot… until the same issue comes back louder, wetter, or more expensive.

That’s the trap with home maintenance and repair durability: the best work often isn’t the prettiest. It’s the work you don’t notice because it holds up through seasons, stress, and time.

Common Reasons Home Repairs Fail

Incomplete Root-Cause Diagnosis

A “repair” can be a patch. A true fix is a diagnosis.

Patch job: stops the visible issue today.

True fix: stops the root cause of the issue in the first place.

Common misses:

Why does it happen?

If the diagnosis is wrong, the repair is a guess. Sometimes guesses hold. Often they don’t.

Low-Quality Materials Used

Materials matter more than people think, especially in places that see heat swings, humidity, and freeze/thaw cycles.

Low-grade materials fail faster because they:

Budget cutting usually shows up in:

Improper Technique or Workmanship

Even great materials can fail with bad technique.

This is where contractor standards matter, especially for plumbing and electrical, where “almost right” can still be wrong.

Common workmanship failures:

Skilled labor shortages add fuel here. Some people are learning on the job. Some are “handy” but not trained. The difference shows up months later.

Environmental and Structural Overlooks

Homes move. The weather pushes. Water finds new paths.

Repairs fail when someone ignores the environment the house lives in:

Example: A crack gets caulked, but the real issues are shifting, water pressure, and poor drainage. Caulk loses that fight every time.

When “Looking Fixed” Isn’t Good Enough

Cosmetic Fixes That Mask Bigger Problems

Some fixes are only superficial.

A few classic “looks good, still broken” moves:

Why it fools people: the eye wants closure. A clean surface feels like the story ended.

But the house doesn’t care about the story. It cares about physics.

The Delay Cost of False Confidence

When a repair seems fine, homeowners tend to wait. This delay increases the real cost.

False confidence leads to:

It also creates a trust problem:

A good repair fixes the problem and restores your confidence.

Case Studies: Real-World Repair Failures

(These are common patterns seen across different houses, same failure logic.)

Plumbing Disasters After Quick Fixes

What happened: A pipe leaked under a sink. Someone tightened a connection and swapped a washer. The leak stopped.

Why it failed again:

The pipe was under stress due to slight misalignment, vibration, and thread corrosion. Tightening it bought time, but didn’t remove the cause.

What a better fix looks like:

Lesson: Tightening to stop a leak? That fix is usually temporary.

Electrical Work That Seemed Safe Until It Wasn’t

What happened: An outlet was “fixed” and worked again. No more flicker.

Why was it dangerous?

A loose connection, an incorrect device rating, or a poor splice can still pass power… while generating heat.

Common red flags behind “working but wrong” electrical work:

Lesson: Electrical danger may show up as heat, not an outage.

How to Avoid Failed Repairs

Ask for a Root-Cause Explanation

Before you approve the repair, ask questions that force clarity.

Good questions:

You’re listening for logic, not confidence.

Demand Transparency on Materials and Techniques

You don’t need a lecture. You need visibility.

Ask for:

Red flags in quotes/invoices:

Get Second Opinions on Major Issues

For expensive work (major plumbing lines, panels, foundation, HVAC replacement), a second opinion can save you from:

A good second opinion should answer:

Know the Signs of a Band-Aid Fix

In the weeks after the work, watch for:

A real fix becomes quieter over time; a band-aid grows noisier.

When It’s Time to Re-Do or Escalate: Recognizing Failing Repairs

Look for warning signs like:

If the issues recur, the cause wasn’t addressed; a redo is needed.

Legal and Insurance Options for Poor Workmanship

Not legal advice, just common, practical steps that often help.

If workmanship is clearly poor:

Even when you’re frustrated, staying organized and factual gives you the best leverage.

Are There Warranties That Cover Bad Repair Jobs?

Sometimes. Many contractors offer labor warranties, and many products have manufacturer warranties, but they don’t cover the same things. Manufacturer warranties often cover defective parts, not installation. Labor warranties cover workmanship, but terms vary a lot. Always get warranty details in writing.

Want a Second Set of Eyes?

If you’ve got a repair that works… but you don’t trust it, that feeling is worth listening to. If something was “fixed” and you’re seeing the same signs creeping back—or you just want a second set of eyes before it turns into a bigger mess, we’re here to help.

We’ll walk you through what’s really going on, what it will take to solve it, and what you can expect, so you can move forward with confidence.

Picking the right HVAC size is key for comfort, humidity, energy use, and how long your system will last. This guide explains what sizing means, what affects it, and how to find the right answer for your home.

Key Takeaways

What “HVAC Size” Really Means

When HVAC companies mention “size,” they’re talking about how much heating or cooling the system provides, not how big the unit is.

So a “3-ton AC” is roughly 36,000 BTU/hr of cooling capacity.

Why Sizing Matters More Than You Think

A properly sized system does more than just reach the set temperature. It helps your whole home feel comfortable and consistent in every room.

If the System Is Too Large

Oversized systems often cool the area near the thermostat quickly and then shut off, only to start up again soon after. This is called short cycling and it can:

If the System Is Too Small

Undersized systems can:

What Determines the HVAC Size Your Home Needs

Square footage matters, but it’s only one piece. A home’s “load” (how much heating and cooling it needs) is affected by:

That’s why two homes with the same square footage can actually need different HVAC sizes.

BTU and Ton Estimates by Square Footage

A lot of people start by looking for a “tons per square foot” answer. This can give you a rough idea, but it shouldn’t be your final choice.

A common rule of thumb for cooling is about 20 to 25 BTU per square foot, but you should adjust this based on your home’s construction and layout.

Cooling Size Ranges (Starting Points)

Square Feet BTU Range System Tonnage
1,200 24,000–30,000 2.0–2.5
1,600 32,000–40,000 2.5–3.5
2,000 40,000–50,000 3.5–4.0
2,400 48,000–60,000 4.0–5.0

What Makes You Need More or Less Cooling?

You’ll often fall toward the higher end if your home has:

You’ll often fall toward the lower end if your home has:

The Pro Way To Size Hvac Equipment

The most reliable way to find the right size is to use a process that removes the guesswork.

Manual J (Load Calculation)

A Manual J calculation measures your home’s heating and cooling load. ACCA notes it’s the national ANSI-recognized standard for producing residential sizing loads.

Manual J Looks At:

Manual S (Equipment Selection)

After the load is known, Manual S is used to select equipment that matches the calculated load properly.

Manual D (Duct Design)

If a home uses ductwork, Manual D addresses duct sizing and design so the right airflow reaches each room. This is important because problems with airflow can make a system that’s the right size still feel uncomfortable.

What To Ask an HVAC Contractor

If you want to feel sure about your purchase, ask these questions to make sure the process is done right:

  1. Will you run a Manual J load calculation for my home?
  2. Can you show me the heating and cooling load results?
  3. How are you matching equipment to those results (Manual S)?
  4. Are you evaluating duct sizing or airflow (Manual D / airflow testing)?
  5. If you recommend upsizing, what changed and why?

A good contractor should be able to clearly explain why they recommend a certain size.

HVAC Sizing FAQ:

Bonus Tips Homeowners Can Miss:

Next Steps

If you need help choosing the right size, or if you already know what system you want and just need expert advice on the details, our team is here for you. We’ll visit your home, talk about your comfort goals, and use proven sizing methods like a Manual J load calculation to find the best fit. When you’re ready, contact us to set up an assessment and get clear, data-backed answers for your home

Why Choosing the Right Furnace Filter Matters

Effects on HVAC Performance, Efficiency & Energy Bills

Your furnace filter isn’t just a dust trap—it directly affects how well your HVAC system runs.
A clogged or incorrect filter can restrict airflow, causing your system to overwork and increasing energy use by up to 15%.

How Furnace Filters Impact Indoor Air Quality (IAQ)

Filters capture dust, dander, and allergens before they circulate through your home.
The better the filter, the fewer airborne irritants linger—especially important for allergy sufferers and households with pets.

Consequences of Using the Wrong Filter Type

Using the wrong size or an overly restrictive filter can damage your blower motor, decrease efficiency, and reduce your system’s lifespan.
Correct fit and rating are essential for both safety and performance.

Step-by-Step: How to Choose the Best Furnace Filter

Step 1: Find the Correct Filter Size

Where to Find Furnace Filter Size

Check the edge of your old filter—it typically lists the dimensions (e.g., 16×25×1).
No label? Measure the opening where the filter sits.

Why Exact Fit Matters

An ill-fitting filter leaves gaps that let dust bypass filtration.
Always match your system’s required size exactly to maintain airflow efficiency and protect internal components.

Step 2: Understand MERV Ratings (1–16+)

What MERV Ratings Mean

MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) measures how well a filter captures particles:

Best MERV Ratings by Home Type

Most homes perform best with MERV 8 or MERV 11 filters—strong enough to trap allergens, gentle enough on your system.

When High MERV Filters Cause HVAC Strain

Using a MERV 13+ filter in a standard furnace can reduce airflow and increase wear.
Unless your HVAC system is rated for it, avoid ultra-high MERVs.

Step 3: Avoid Overhyped or Problematic Filters

Scented, Reusable, and Gimmicky Filters to Skip

Why Pleated Filters Are the Best Value

Pleated filters balance cost, performance, and durability.
They capture fine particles without reducing airflow, making them ideal for long-term system health.

What to Avoid

Don’t bend or force the filter. Avoid loose installs, which allow dust to bypass the filter entirely.

When to Replace Your Furnace Filter

Filter Lifespan by Thickness

Replacement Frequency for Pets, Allergies, and Heavy Use

If you have pets, allergy concerns, or high usage, change filters more often.
Monitor for visible dirt or reduced airflow.

Signs Your Filter Needs Replacing

Make It Easy: Join a Furnace Filter Delivery Program

What Is the Filter Saver Club?

A subscription service that delivers the exact filter size and rating you need on a custom schedule.

Benefits of Scheduled Filter Delivery

How to Subscribe

Visit FilterSaverClub.com and enter your filter size and frequency.
Set it and forget it.

FAQ: Furnace Filter Tips You Won’t Find on the Label

What’s the difference between pleated and fiberglass filters?

Fiberglass filters are cheaper but less effective—they only trap larger particles, such as lint or hair.
Pleated filters use denser material to catch smaller allergens, dust, and even mold spores.

Can I vacuum and reuse a disposable filter in a pinch?

It’s not recommended. Vacuuming damages the filter media and compromises its integrity.
It may look cleaner, but it won’t trap fine particles effectively after being vacuumed.

Are HEPA filters good for furnaces?

HEPA filters offer excellent filtration but are generally not compatible with standard residential HVAC systems due to high airflow resistance.
Use only if your system supports HEPA explicitly or has a bypass unit.

Final Takeaway

Best Practices for Furnace Filter Maintenance

Choosing the right furnace filter—and replacing it on time—is one of the easiest ways to protect your HVAC system, lower energy bills, and improve your home’s air quality. If you have any questions or need help installing yours, feel free to reach out.

Long-Term Benefits for Your System and Wallet

Want to take the guesswork out of it?
The Filter Saver Club delivers your filters on time, every time—so your system (and lungs) can breathe easy.

Why Catch HVAC Issues Early?

Your HVAC system doesn’t come with a dashboard alert—but it does give off early warning signs. If you catch them in time, you can avoid uncomfortable breakdowns, high energy bills, and expensive repairs. Most experts recommend servicing your system twice a year—once in spring and again in fall.

Regular maintenance boosts:
– System efficiency
– Comfort and air quality
– Equipment lifespan

It also protects your warranty and helps avoid sudden, costly failures.

1. Strange Noises (Grinding, Squealing, or Banging)

HVAC systems are meant to run quietly. If yours starts making squealing, rattling, or grinding noises, that could mean a loose belt, worn bearings, or electrical issues. Left unchecked, these can quickly lead to complete system failure or costly damage.

What to do: Schedule a professional inspection to catch the cause early—before it gets louder (and more expensive).

2. Musty or Burning Smells

Unusual odors are never “normal.” Musty smells could signal mold buildup in your ductwork, while burning smells may point to electrical overheating. Both can affect your air quality and safety.

What to do: Shut the system off and call for service. These issues are best addressed immediately.

3. Weak Airflow or Uneven Heating/Cooling

If certain rooms are harder to heat or cool—or the airflow feels weaker than usual—your blower fan, ducts, or filter may be the culprit. This can lead to poor performance and rising energy bills.

What to do: Don’t just crank up the thermostat. Let a pro inspect your system for blockages, leaks, or fan issues.

4. Short Cycling or Running Constantly

Short cycling (where your system turns on and off repeatedly) is hard on components and inefficient. Running constantly means something’s off with system sizing, insulation, or internal wear.

What to do: A technician can test your thermostat, refrigerant levels, and system calibration to fix the root cause.

5. Unexplained Energy Bill Spikes

Has your electric bill jumped without a change in usage? That’s often a sign your system is overworking—due to dirty filters, clogged coils, or a failing part.

What to do: Schedule a maintenance check to restore efficiency before your next billing cycle.

6. Water Leaks or Moisture Around the Unit

Condensate lines can clog. Evaporator coils can freeze. Either way, water leaking around your unit isn’t just messy—it’s a warning sign of deeper issues.

What to do: Shut the system off and call a technician before it causes mold or water damage.

7. High Humidity Indoors

HVAC systems help dehumidify your home. If your air feels muggy or sticky even when the system’s on, it might be failing to regulate humidity.

What to do: Have your system checked to improve comfort and indoor air quality—especially in Indiana’s humid months.

8. Frequent Repairs or a System Over 10 Years Old

If you’re calling for repairs more than once a year—or your system’s over a decade old—it might be losing efficiency and reliability.

What to do: Consider whether a new system would save more long-term than continued repairs

9. Thermostat Problems or Inaccurate Readings

If your thermostat isn’t responding, the temperature never feels right, or your settings don’t match performance, it may be miscalibrated, the system itself is lagging, or even in a bad location.

What to do: Let us check both the thermostat and HVAC unit to restore comfort and control.

10. You’re Not Changing Filters Regularly

Dirty filters are the #1 cause of preventable HVAC problems—they restrict airflow, strain your system, and reduce indoor air quality. But changing them is easy to forget

Enter: The Filter Saver Club

We created the Filter Saver Club to make filter changes completely hassle-free.

Here’s how it works:
– You tell us your system and filter size
– We deliver new filters right to your door, on your schedule
– No trips to the store, no forgetting, no stress

Why it matters:
– Keeps your air cleaner and healthier
– Protects your HVAC system from early wear
– Helps lower energy costs
– Extends system lifespan

It’s one of the easiest things you can do to prevent breakdowns—and it’s surprisingly affordable. Join now, and we’ll handle the rest.

When Should You Call a Pro?

If you notice:
– Burning or electrical odors
– No airflow or cooling
– Leaking water
– Loud or unusual noises
– Your HVAC runs but doesn’t cool or heat properly

…it’s time to call the experts at Peterman Brothers.

We proudly offer HVAC Maintenance Services across Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, and parts of Michigan, including routine tune-ups, complete diagnostics, and seasonal checkups.

Quick HVAC Maintenance FAQ for Homeowners

How often should I service my HVAC?
Twice a year—once in spring (A/C) and once in fall (heating).

How often should I replace filters?
Every 1–3 months, depending on usage and filter type. Our Filter Saver Club helps automate it.

Can I do HVAC maintenance myself?
You can handle filter changes and basic cleaning. But inspections, refrigerant checks, and electrical components should be left to pros.

Your HVAC system rarely fails out of nowhere—it gives signs. If you’ve noticed any of the ones we’ve listed, now’s the time to act. Catching problems early means lower costs, better comfort, and peace of mind.

👉 Schedule HVAC Service
👉 Join the Filter Saver Club

If your home has felt especially muggy lately, you’re not imagining it.

Many homeowners across the Midwest are noticing more humidity than usual this time of summer. Even with the air conditioner running, rooms still feel damp, and indoor air just doesn’t feel as comfortable as it should.

One surprising reason for this extra stickiness? A real weather effect known as “corn sweat.”

In this article, we’ll explain what corn sweat is, how it impacts the comfort of your home, and what steps you can take to maintain healthier, drier indoor air—all with the help of trusted solutions from Peterman Brothers.

What Is “Corn Sweat”?

“Corn sweat” is a nickname for a natural process known as transpiration. As corn plants grow, especially in July and August, they release large amounts of water vapor through their leaves into the air.

This is part of how the plant stays healthy and cools itself. But when you multiply this effect by the millions of acres of cornfields across the Midwest, it becomes a noticeable factor in our summer humidity.

In fact, one acre of mature corn can release up to 4,000 gallons of water per day into the atmosphere. With so much farmland in Indiana, Ohio, Illinois, and nearby states, this moisture builds up quickly and raises the humidity levels across our region.

How “Corn Sweat” Affects Summer Humidity

Why It Feels Hotter Than It Is

As the air becomes more saturated with moisture, your body finds it harder to cool itself. That’s why on a humid day, 80 degrees might feel closer to 90 or even 95.

This is especially common during what meteorologists call a “heat dome”—when high pressure traps hot, humid air close to the ground.

Corn sweat adds even more moisture to the mix, raising dew points by 5 to 10 degrees in some areas. The result? Hot, heavy air both outside and inside your home.

The Impact on Your Home and Air Conditioning System

Your air conditioning system is designed to do two important things:

  1. Lower the indoor temperature
  2. Remove excess moisture from the air

When outdoor humidity levels spike, your A/C system works much harder to handle the extra moisture. That can lead to:

Over time, this additional strain can increase energy bills and reduce the life of your equipment.

What You Can Do to Stay Comfortable

Everyday Tips for Reducing Indoor Humidity

Still feeling the effects of excess moisture? It may be time to explore professional solutions that work with your HVAC system.

How Peterman Brothers Can Help You Feel More Comfortable at Home

At Peterman Brothers, we’ve helped thousands of homeowners across Indiana and the Midwest take control of indoor humidity, especially during the peak summer months.

Here are a few solutions we offer:

Whole-Home Dehumidifiers

A whole-home dehumidifier works with your existing heating and cooling system to remove moisture throughout the entire house.

Benefits include:

Learn more about our Dehumidifier services.

High-Efficiency A/C Systems With Humidity Control

If your air conditioning unit is older or oversized, it may cool the air quickly but fail to remove enough moisture.

Today’s variable-speed systems operate at lower speeds for longer periods, allowing them to reduce humidity more effectively while saving on energy costs.

Learn more about our A/C Install Services.

Annual AC Tune-Ups & Moisture Assessments

A simple maintenance visit can make a big difference. We’ll clean your coils, check your system for proper refrigerant levels, and ensure everything is working efficiently.

Regular maintenance helps your system:

Learn more about our AC Maintenance services.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is “corn sweat” really a major factor in humidity?
 Yes. In the Midwest, the combination of cornfields and warm temperatures can significantly increase local humidity levels.

Q: What should indoor humidity be?
 Between 40% and 50% is ideal. Higher than that can lead to discomfort and possible mold growth.

Q: Can a dehumidifier help reduce energy bills?
 Yes. By removing moisture from the air, your A/C doesn’t have to work as hard to keep you comfortable.

Q: How do I know if my home is too humid?
 Look for signs like foggy windows, musty smells, sticky air, or rooms that never seem to feel truly “cool.”

Peterman Brothers Customer Story: A/C Replacement

“This company is top notch! Finding a company that cares in today’s world is very hard. Every person that I have come into contact with from Peterman has been knowledgeable, kind, and made me feel important.

No one has been rushed while being here and they have made sure to explain things in terms I will understand. I bought a brand new air conditioning unit, called in a month later to ask a few questions, and someone was sent out to make sure everything was running perfect!

They go above and beyond to make sure you are happy. It’s unusual to find a company that is calling YOU!! Since they could not get anyone here for a week to replace the unit Jim brought me a window air unit to get me by on his day off! This shows they truly care about the customer.” 

— Stacey C., Indianapolis, IN

Ready to Feel Comfortable Again?

At Peterman Brothers, we know Midwest summers can be challenging. We’re here to help you stay comfortable with trusted HVAC services, humidity solutions, and expert advice.

Serving homeowners throughout Indiana, Kentucky, and Ohio. Find your nearest location.

Call Now | Book Online | Send a Message

⚠️ Fact: Most emergency A/C repairs happen mid-summer. Spotting the signs early can save you thousands—and keep your home comfortable when you need it most.

When your air conditioner starts acting up, it’s easy to overlook the warning signs. But ignoring them can lead to system breakdowns, expensive repairs, and miserable days in the heat.

Here are the five clearest signs your A/C might be headed for failure—and what can happen if you wait too long.

1. Your A/C Is Running, But the Air Isn’t Cool

🔍 Signs to watch for:

Possible causes:

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Your A/C will run constantly without cooling your home, causing high energy bills and putting stress on the compressor. If the compressor fails, you’re looking at one of the most expensive HVAC repairs—or even a full system replacement.

2. Strange Noises Are Coming from the System

🔍 Sounds to notice:

Common causes:

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Mechanical issues tend to snowball. A failing bearing can seize the fan, a loose part can damage others, and refrigerant leaks can destroy the compressor. What starts as a small noise can lead to a full system shutdown.

3. Musty or Moldy Smells When the A/C Runs

🔍 Odors to take seriously:

Likely causes:

🧬 CDC warns that indoor mold can worsen allergies, asthma, and other respiratory issues.

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Mold spores can spread throughout your home via the ductwork, reducing air quality and potentially harming your health. Moisture buildup can also lead to water damage or corrosion inside your HVAC system.

4. Your Energy Bill Spikes for No Clear Reason

🔍 Signs of inefficiency:

Main causes:

📉 DOE recommends checking filters monthly and scheduling seasonal tune-ups.

What Happens If You Ignore It?

An inefficient system works harder to cool your home, driving up energy use and increasing wear on major components. Over time, this can lead to overheating, electrical problems, and reduced equipment lifespan.

5. Your System Turns On and Off Frequently (Short Cycling)

🔍 What to look for:

Causes:

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Short cycling stresses your compressor and can cause it to fail prematurely. It also leads to uneven cooling, increased humidity, and skyrocketing energy use.

🚨 Bonus Sign: Water Leaks Around the A/C

🔍 Warning signs:

Likely causes:

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Water can damage floors, walls, and ceilings. It also encourages mold growth and can trigger electrical shorts in your system.

Is Your A/C More Than 10 Years Old?

Systems older than 10–15 years are more likely to show signs of wear and are more expensive to repair. If you’re experiencing several of the issues above, and your unit’s over a decade old, it might be time to talk about replacement.

What to Do Next

The earlier you catch these signs, the easier and more affordable the fix. At Peterman Brothers, we’ll help you spot trouble before it turns into a major breakdown—and keep your system running strong all summer long.

📅 Schedule your A/C inspection today
 We’ll find the issue fast, fix it right, and keep your house cool when it matters most.

Trusted Experts in Electrical Safety & Home Power Solutions

At Peterman Brothers, we’ve helped hundreds of homeowners upgrade their electrical panels for increased safety, efficiency, and reliability. If your home is over 20 years old or you’ve recently installed high-power appliances (EV chargers, HVAC systems, etc.), an electrical panel upgrade may be necessary.

This guide explains when and why you should upgrade your panel, what’s involved, and how our licensed electricians can provide a seamless, code-compliant upgrade.

What is an Electrical Panel, and How Does It Work?

Understanding Your Electrical Panel

Your electrical panel (also known as a breaker box) is the heart of your home’s electrical system. It distributes electricity from the power grid to different areas of your home while protecting circuits from overloading.

💡 Think of it as a traffic control center:
 ✔ Main Breaker – The master switch for your home’s electricity.
✔ Circuit Breakers – Automatically shut off power if an overload or short circuit occurs.
✔ Bus Bars & Wiring – Distribute power safely to all parts of the house.

Outdated or undersized electrical panels can’t keep up with modern power demands, leading to fire hazards, tripping breakers, and safety risks.

🔹 Is your panel outdated? Our expert electricians at Peterman Brothers is currently offering free assessments to determine if you need an upgrade!

Signs That You Need an Electrical Panel Upgrade

If you’re experiencing any of these warning signs, your electrical panel may be unsafe or insufficient:

❌ Frequent Circuit Breaker Trips – If your breakers trip regularly, your panel may be overloaded.
❌ Burning Smells or Discolored Outlets – Overheated wires can spark electrical fires.
❌ Outdated Panels (Federal Pacific, Zinsco, or Split-Bus Panels) – These are known fire hazards and should be replaced immediately.
❌ Adding High-Power Appliances – EV chargers, hot tubs, or HVAC systems require higher amperage.
❌ Home Renovations or Smart Home Upgrades – Expanding your home? You’ll need increased electrical capacity.

🔹 Concerned about your panel? Schedule a consultation with our licensed electricians today.

Why Upgrade Your Electrical Panel?

1. Improved Safety & Fire Prevention

2. More Power for Your Home’s Growing Needs

3. Energy Efficiency & Lower Utility Bills

4. Code Compliance & Home Insurance Eligibility

🔹 We provide professional panel upgrades that meet all state and local codes to ensure safety and compliance.

How Much Does an Electrical Panel Upgrade Cost?

💰 The cost of an electrical panel upgrade depends on panel size, wiring needs, and labor costs.

Panel Size Average Cost Best For
100 Amp $1,000 – $2,500 Small homes, minimal power use
200 Amp $2,500 – $4,500 Most modern homes, smart devices, EV chargers
400 Amp $5,000 – $8,000 Large homes, multiple EVs, high-demand appliances

Step-by-Step: How We Upgrade Your Electrical Panel

Step 1: Assessment & Load Calculation

✔ Our licensed electricians evaluate your current panel and determine if an upgrade is necessary.

Step 2: Choosing the Right Panel Size

✔ We recommend 100A, 200A, or 400A panels based on your home’s electrical needs and future upgrades.

Step 3: Obtaining Permits & Scheduling the Upgrade

✔ We handle all necessary permits and inspections so you don’t have to.

Step 4: Professional Installation & Safety Testing

✔ Power Shut-Off & Old Panel Removal
✔ New Panel Installation & Circuit Breaker Setup
✔ Final Inspection & Compliance Certification

📌 Our team ensures a seamless, code-compliant installation with minimal downtime for your home!

FAQs – Answered by Our Licensed Electricians

✅ How long does an electrical panel upgrade take?
 Most installations are completed in 4-8 hours, depending on complexity.

✅ Can I upgrade my electrical panel without rewiring my home?
 In many cases, yes! If your wiring is up to code and in good condition, a panel upgrade can be done without rewiring your entire home.

✅ Do I need a permit for an electrical panel upgrade?
 Yes, most cities require permits and inspections—which we handle for you.

✅ Is a panel upgrade worth it for home resale value?
 Absolutely! Upgraded electrical systems make homes more valuable and attractive to buyers.

📌 Still have questions? Contact Peterman Brothers today or Request an Estimate.

Why Choose Peterman Brothers for Your Electrical Panel Upgrade?

🔹 Licensed & Insured Electricians – Ensuring 100% safety & compliance.
🔹 Fast, Professional Service – Most installations are completed in one day.
🔹 Competitive Pricing & Financing Options – Helping you upgrade affordably.
🔹 Trusted by Thousands of Homeowners in the Midwest – Check out our 5-star reviews!

📌 Serving 11 locations across Indiana, Kentucky, and Ohio

Why Choose Peterman Brothers for Your Electrical Panel Upgrade?

✅ Ensures safety, prevents fire hazards, and keeps your home up to code.
✅ Supports modern appliances like EV chargers, solar panels, and HVAC systems.
✅ May lower insurance premiums and increase home resale value.

📌 Next Steps:
 📞 Contact Peterman Brothers or Request a Quote today!

Low Water Pressure: A Homeowner’s Guide

Low water pressure can be a real headache. Low water pressure can turn a refreshing shower into a trickle, extend the time to wash dishes, and even hurt your appliances’ performance. We understand how frustrating it can be, and you’re not alone. We’ve created this guide to help you navigate this common issue. 

We’ll walk you through the common reasons for low water pressure, some simple solutions you can try yourself, and when it’s best to call a professional plumber. Let’s get your water flowing like it should!

What Causes Low Water Pressure?

Several things can cause low water pressure in your home. Some are easy to fix, while others might need a plumber’s help. Here are the most typical culprits:

Clogged Pipes:

Over time, minerals, sediment, and other debris can build up inside your pipes. This buildup restricts water flow, much like cholesterol can clog your arteries.

This is especially common in older homes that have galvanized steel pipes.

Faulty Pressure Regulator:

Your home has a water pressure regulator, a valve that controls the water pressure coming into your house.

If this valve isn’t working right, it can lead to low or even high pressure, which is also a problem. 

Leaks:

Even small leaks can cause a big drop in water pressure. Sometimes, you can easily spot a leak, like a dripping faucet. But other times, leaks are hidden behind walls, under floors, or even underground. 

Well Pump Problems:

If your home gets water from a well and the pump isn’t working correctly (it might need a new setting, be worn out, or have a power issue), or if the water level in your well is low, you’ll have low water pressure. A blockage in the well casing can also cause problems. 

City Water Supply Issues:

Sometimes, the problem isn’t in your house at all. The city’s water system might have problems. Broken water mains, construction in your area, or high water use by everyone in your area can affect your pressure.

Closed Valves:

Check that your main water shut-off valve (usually near your water meter) and any other valves in your plumbing system are fully open. Sometimes, these valves get bumped and partially closed, which restricts the water flow

How to Diagnose Low Water Pressure

Before you start taking things apart, do a little investigating to see if you can figure out the cause. Here’s what you can do:

Use a Water Pressure Gauge:

The best way to know if you have low water pressure is to use a water pressure gauge. You can buy one at most hardware stores for around $20. Attach it to an outdoor faucet (or any faucet with a hose connection) and turn the water on. A normal reading is between 40 and 60 psi (pounds per square inch). Anything lower than that is considered low.

Check All Your Faucets:

Is the low pressure happening at every faucet in your house, or just one or two? If it’s just one or two faucets, the problem is likely in that specific area (like a clogged pipe or aerator). If the problem is everywhere, it’s probably closer to the main water supply or the pressure regulator.

Look for Signs of Leaks:

Check for any obvious signs of leaks, like dripping faucets, wet spots on walls or ceilings, or unusually high water bills. Even a small, hidden leak can waste a lot of water and lower your water pressure.

Ask Your Neighbors:

If you think the problem might be with the city’s water system, ask your neighbors if they have the same issue. This can help you figure out if it’s a problem with the city or something specific to your house.

Check Your Water Meter:

Look at your water meter. You probably have a leak if it runs even when all your faucets are turned off.

DIY Solutions for Low Water Pressure

Here are some things you can try to fix low water pressure yourself.

Important: Be careful when working with plumbing. If you’re uncomfortable with any of these steps or run into any problems, it’s always best to call a professional plumber.

Check for Kinks in Hoses:

Look at the water supply hoses connected to your appliances (washing machine, dishwasher, refrigerator, etc.). Make sure there are no kinks or bends in the hoses, as these can block the flow of water.

Clean Aerators:

The aerators are the little screens at the tips of your faucets. They can get clogged with minerals and debris. Unscrew them carefully (you might need pliers, but wrap the pliers with a cloth to protect the faucet) and clean them with a brush or soak them in vinegar overnight. 

Adjust the Pressure Regulator:

If you have a pressure regulator, you might be able to adjust it yourself. But you need to know what you’re doing. Adjusting it the wrong way can damage your plumbing. Look for the adjustment screw (it’s usually a small screw on top of the regulator). Turn it clockwise a little bit at a time to increase the pressure and counterclockwise to decrease it. Check your pressure with a gauge after each adjustment. If you’re unsure, it’s best to call a plumber. 

Check the Water Meter Valve:

Find your water meter (it’s usually near the street or in your basement or crawl space) and make sure the valve is fully open. Sometimes, it gets bumped and partially closes, restricting the water flow.

Check for Closed Valves:

Besides the main shutoff valve, there are other valves in your plumbing system, often near your water heater, under sinks, and in other places. Make sure all of these valves are fully open.

When to Call a Plumber for Low Water Pressure

Some low water pressure problems are too big for DIY. Here are times when you should call a professional plumber:

The Problem Won’t Go Away:

If you’ve tried the DIY solutions (checking hoses, cleaning aerators, etc.) and your water pressure is still low, it’s time to call a plumber. A more serious problem requires a plumber’s tools and expertise.

You Think You Have a Leak:

If you think you have a leak but can’t find it, a plumber can find and fix hidden leaks using special tools (such as leak detection equipment). Ignoring a leak can cause extensive water damage and a huge water bill.

Your Plumbing is Complicated:

If you have a complicated plumbing system, older pipes, or if you’re just not comfortable working with plumbing, it’s always best to call a professional. Plumbing can be tricky, and mistakes can be expensive.

You Have a Well:

Well pump problems should always be handled by a qualified plumber or well service professional. Working with well pumps can be dangerous, and you need special knowledge.

Nothing Gets Better After Trying DIY:

If you’ve tried the DIY solutions we’ve discussed and nothing has improved your water pressure, it’s time to call a plumber. Don’t keep trying things that aren’t working – you could accidentally make the problem worse.

Your Toilet Backs Up:

If you have low water pressure and your toilet backs up, this is a serious plumbing emergency. Call a plumber right away.

Your Water Pressure Changes a Lot:

If your water pressure goes from normal to low (or even high) off and on, this could mean a problem with the pressure regulator or another part of your plumbing system. Call a plumber to figure out what’s causing it.

How to Keep Your Water Pressure Strong

Here are some tips to help you prevent low water pressure in the future:

Regular Checkups:

Schedule regular plumbing inspections (at least once a year) to catch potential problems early. A plumber can check your pipes, pressure regulator, and other parts of your plumbing system to make sure everything is working as it should. 

Don’t Flush Things You Shouldn’t:

Only flush toilet paper. Other things (like wipes, paper towels, and feminine products) can clog your pipes and cause low water pressure, or even a complete blockage that stops water flow altogether. This is a big one!

Keep Pipes Warm in Winter:

Frozen pipes can burst, causing leaks and low water pressure (or even no water at all!). Insulate your pipes, especially the ones in places that don’t get heated, like basements, crawl spaces, and outside walls. During freezing weather, let your faucets drip a little bit. This keeps the water moving, which helps prevent freezing. Check out our other guide for more tips on protecting your home from the cold.

Take Care of Your Water Heater:

Every so often, you should flush your water heater to get rid of sediment buildup. Sediment can block water flow and make your water heater less efficient. Check your water heater’s manual for instructions on how to do this, or reach out to us if you need help.

Look for Leaks Regularly:

Keep an eye out for any signs of leaks, like dripping faucets, wet spots on your walls or ceilings, or a water bill that’s higher than usual. Even small, hidden leaks can waste a lot of water and lower your water pressure. Fixing leaks quickly can prevent more damage and keep your water pressure good.

Think About a Water Softener:

If you have hard water (with lots of minerals), a water softener can help prevent mineral buildup in your pipes. Mineral buildup can restrict water flow and cause low water pressure over time. Hard water can also damage your appliances. You can learn more about hard water here.

Don’t Use Too Much Water at Once:

Avoid running multiple water-using appliances (like the washing machine and dishwasher) at the same time, especially during times when everyone in your neighborhood is using a lot of water. This can sometimes strain the water system and lead to lower pressure.

How Low Water Pressure Affects Your Appliances

Low water pressure isn’t just inconvenient; it can also affect how well your appliances work:

Dishwasher:

Your dishwasher needs good water pressure to clean your dishes properly. Low pressure can cause your dishes to not be fully cleaned, and the cycle might take longer.

Washing Machine:

Low pressure can make wash cycles take longer, and your clothes might not be as clean. It can also affect the spin cycle, leaving your clothes wetter than they should be.

Refrigerator with Ice Maker/Water Dispenser:

Low water pressure can stop your ice maker from working right, making the water dispenser trickle instead of flow. You might get smaller ice cubes than usual, or the water might come out very slowly.

Shower:

Probably the most annoying thing about low water pressure is how it affects your shower. A weak stream of water can make showering a frustrating experience, and it can be hard to rinse out shampoo and soap.

Need More Help with Low Water Pressure?

Low water pressure can be a real pain, but we hope this guide has given you some helpful information and ideas. Whether you’re a DIYer or you prefer to call a pro, we hope you now have the knowledge you need to get your water flowing strong again.

If you’re in our neck of the woods and you’ve tried everything you can think of, or if you just want a friendly expert to take a look, don’t hesitate to reach out! We’re a local team, and we’re passionate about helping our neighbors keep their homes running smoothly.

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