Your furnace may be working just fine today. So, why schedule a tune-up?

Because the best time to find a small problem is before it leaves you without heat. Routine maintenance helps your furnace run efficiently, catches signs of wear, and gives you a clearer picture of its condition before winter puts it to work.

Here’s what a professional furnace tune-up includes and why each check matters.

Why get a furnace tune-up if everything is working?

A furnace can heat your home while still developing problems you may not notice. Components wear down, electrical connections can loosen, and dust can build up as the system runs. Some issues only become apparent when the furnace has to work harder during cold weather.

An annual tune-up gives a trained professional the opportunity to inspect, clean, and test the system before the heating season. It can help:

• Catch potential problems before they become more expensive repairs.

• Maintain efficient operation and consistent heating.

• Identify safety concerns, including issues with combustion or venting.

• Reduce the risk of an unexpected breakdown.

• Support the long-term care of your heating equipment.

Maintenance cannot prevent every failure or guarantee that your furnace will last a certain number of years. But it can help you make informed decisions and avoid letting small issues go unnoticed.

What’s included in a furnace tune-up?

A thorough tune-up is more than changing a filter or giving the equipment a quick look. It includes checks of the furnace’s safety controls, electrical components, airflow, combustion, and heating performance.

The exact steps depend on your system’s age, model, and whether it is gas or electric. The following 19 checks are part of our gas furnace tune-up process.

Gas furnace checklist

1. Clean the furnace cabinet. Remove accumulated dust and debris from accessible areas and inspect the equipment’s general condition.

2. Evaluate the heat exchanger. Check for visible cracks, corrosion, rust, erosion, or other abnormalities that may indicate a safety or performance concern.

3. Take a carbon monoxide reading. Test for carbon monoxide as part of the furnace’s safety evaluation.

4. Clean the burners. Inspect and clean the burners to support proper combustion and operation.

5. Clean and test the pilot or flame sensor. Check the flame-sensing components and take readings as appropriate for the system.

6. Check the ignitor. Test the ignition component and its readings to confirm it is operating properly.

7. Measure gas pressure. Check incoming and outgoing gas pressure against the manufacturer’s specifications.

8. Check the inducer motor. Measure its electrical amp draw and compare it with the rated operating range.

9. Check the blower motor. Measure the blower motor’s amp draw to help identify signs of electrical or mechanical strain.

10. Test the fan capacitor. Check the capacitor’s reading and condition where the system uses one.

11. Inspect the blower wheel. Look for dirt buildup, damage, or other conditions that could affect airflow.

12. Inspect safety controls and limits. Confirm the furnace’s protective controls are functioning as intended.

13. Take high- and low-voltage readings. Check the electrical supply and control voltage for proper operation.

14. Test pressure switches. Verify that the pressure switches operate correctly as part of the furnace’s safety system.

15. Inspect the wiring. Look for loose connections, damage, or signs of overheating.

16. Check the condensate drain and pump. For systems equipped with condensate drainage, confirm the drain and pump are operational and free of obstructions.

Air temperature checks

17. Record the return air temperature. Measure the temperature of the air entering the furnace.

18. Record the supply air temperature. Measure the temperature of the air leaving the furnace.

19. Calculate the temperature rise. Compare the difference between supply and return temperatures with the manufacturer’s recommended range to help evaluate heating performance.

What about an electric furnace?

Electric furnaces do not have gas burners or heat exchangers, so some of the checks above do not apply. A professional tune-up instead focuses on the electrical heating components and the system’s overall operation.

Additional electric furnace checks include:

• Measure heater kilowatt output. Check the heating elements’ power output.

• Record heater amp draw. Measure the electrical current used by the heating elements.

• Inspect the wiring. Look for loose connections, damage, or signs of overheating.

Why the safety checks matter

A furnace does more than keep your home comfortable. It also needs to operate safely. Gas furnaces produce combustion gases that must be properly vented, and a damaged heat exchanger or other combustion-related problem can create serious concerns.

That is why a professional tune-up includes safety testing rather than simply checking whether warm air comes out of the vents. If a technician finds a concern, they should explain what they found, what it means, and what options you have.

A tune-up is not a substitute for working carbon monoxide alarms. Keep CO alarms installed and maintained according to their manufacturer’s instructions.

How often should you schedule a furnace tune-up?

Most homeowners should schedule professional furnace maintenance once a year, ideally before the heating season begins. Your furnace’s manufacturer may have specific maintenance requirements, so follow those recommendations as well.

If your furnace is making unusual noises, struggling to heat your home, cycling frequently, or showing other warning signs, do not wait for your annual appointment. Schedule a repair visit so the problem can be diagnosed.

Is a furnace tune-up included with the Protection Club?

Yes. Peterman Protection Club members receive an annual furnace tune-up as part of their membership benefits, along with other home maintenance and service savings.

The goal is to make routine care easier to keep up with, so you can stay ahead of maintenance instead of waiting for something to go wrong.

Learn more about the Peterman Protection Club

Keep your furnace ready for winter

You should be able to count on your heat when temperatures drop. A furnace tune-up is a practical way to check your system’s condition, address potential concerns, and prepare for the months ahead.

If you’re ready to schedule maintenance, Peterman Brothers can help you take the next step.

Schedule Your Furnace Tune-Up

Wildfire smoke from Canada is drifting into the Midwest again, leaving hazy skies and stretches of unhealthy air across the region.

Even though the fires may be hundreds or thousands of miles away, the smoke they produce can still foul the air outside your home, and some of it works its way indoors. You cannot control which way the wind blows, but you can take real steps to cut the smoke inside your home and protect the people who live there.

Why Is Wildfire Smoke Dangerous?

Wildfire smoke is a mixture of gases and microscopic particles. One of the biggest concerns is fine particulate matter known as PM2.5, particles small enough to travel deep into the lungs.

PM2.5The fine particle that drives most smoke health effects

MERV 13Minimum filter rating the EPA recommends for smoke

AQI 101+Where sensitive groups should start limiting exposure

Exposure can cause coughing, wheezing, headaches and more. Common symptoms include:

• Coughing or wheezing
• Eye, nose and throat irritation
• Headaches
• Chest tightness
• Shortness of breath
• Fatigue

Children, older adults, pregnant people and those with asthma, COPD, heart disease or other medical conditions may be more likely to feel these effects.

Check the Air Quality Before Going Outside

The Air Quality Index, usually called the AQI, gives you a quick read on current outdoor air. You can check your local number through AirNow or your preferred weather service. Air quality shifts throughout the day as wind direction and smoke concentrations change.

What the AQI Numbers Mean

Use the index, not just how the sky looks, to decide whether it is safe outside.

101–150 · Unhealthy for Sensitive Groups. Children, older adults and people with heart or lung conditions should cut back on prolonged outdoor activity.
151–200 · Unhealthy. Everyone may begin to feel effects and should consider limiting strenuous activity outdoors.
201 or higher · Very Unhealthy or Hazardous. Reduce outdoor exposure and follow local public-health guidance.

Even when the sky does not look especially smoky, fine particles may still be in the air. Trust the AQI over visibility alone.

9 Ways to Protect Your Home During a Smoke Event

Keep Windows and Doors Closed

Opening the windows on a cool day feels good, but it lets outdoor smoke pour in. During poor air quality:

• Keep windows and exterior doors closed
• Check for damaged weatherstripping around doors and windows
• Avoid repeatedly opening exterior doors
• Close fireplace dampers when the fireplace is not in use
• Limit ventilation systems that pull outdoor air inside

Sealing obvious leaks also makes your home more comfortable and eases the load on your heating and cooling system.

Set Your HVAC System to Recirculate

Most home systems already recirculate indoor air, but some include a fresh-air intake that brings outdoor air in. If yours has one, switch it to recirculation mode or close the outdoor-air intake during a smoke event. The recirculate setting in your vehicle helps when driving through smoky conditions too.

Do not block vents or change equipment unless you know how your system is set up. A professional can help identify whether your home has an outdoor-air intake.

Check and Upgrade Your HVAC Filter

Your furnace and central air conditioner generally share the same filter, and during a smoke event it can capture some of the fine particles moving through your home. Start by inspecting your current filter and replace it if it is visibly dirty or overdue.

For better particle filtration, the EPA recommends a MERV 13 filter, or the highest-efficiency filter your system can safely handle.

Before you jump ratings: higher-efficiency filters create more resistance to airflow. A filter your system was not designed for can hurt performance or strain the equipment. Check your manufacturer’s instructions or ask a professional before a big change in filter rating, and check the filter more often during heavy smoke.

Run the HVAC Fan More Often

Your filter only cleans the air while the blower fan is running. During a significant smoke event, moving the fan from Auto to On keeps indoor air passing through the filter even when the system is not actively cooling.

Continuous operation uses more electricity and should only be used when your filter and system are in good shape. Return the fan to its normal setting once air quality improves.

Create a Cleaner-Air Room

When outdoor air gets especially bad, pick one room to serve as a cleaner-air space. A bedroom or family room with few exterior doors or windows usually works well.

To set up the room:

• Keep its doors and windows closed
• Use a portable air cleaner sized for the room
• Keep smoke-producing activities out of the space
• Run your central HVAC with an appropriate filter when possible
• Spend more time there when outdoor air is at its worst

This is especially helpful for children, older adults and people with heart or lung conditions.

Use a Portable HEPA Air Cleaner

A portable air cleaner adds filtration in bedrooms, home offices and other rooms you use often. Look for a unit with:

• A true HEPA filter
• A Clean Air Delivery Rate suited to the room’s square footage
• Replacement filters that are easy to find
• No intentional ozone generation

Place it where furniture and curtains will not block airflow, keep the door and windows closed, and run it continuously at the highest comfortable setting. Portable units clean one room or area and are not a replacement for maintaining your central system.

Avoid Creating More Indoor Pollution

When outdoor smoke is already affecting your home, skip activities that add particles or irritants to the air. Try to limit:

• Smoking or vaping indoors
• Burning candles or incense
• Wood-burning fireplaces
• Frying, broiling or other high-smoke cooking
• Aerosol sprays
• Vacuuming without a HEPA-filtered vacuum

When practical, use lower-pollution cooking methods like a microwave, slow cooker or pressure cooker. Wiping and damp-mopping surfaces removes settled particles without stirring them back into the air.

Do Not Rely on UV Lights for Smoke Removal

Some whole-home air quality systems use UV light to target certain biological contaminants. But wildfire smoke is mainly a particle-filtration problem, and UV lights do not replace a high-efficiency HVAC filter or a portable HEPA cleaner when your goal is reducing smoke particles.

Skip ozone generators

Avoid air-cleaning products that intentionally generate ozone. Ozone can irritate the lungs and make indoor air quality worse, not better.

Limit Outdoor Exposure

When the AQI is elevated, cut back on strenuous outdoor activity and move exercise indoors when you can. If you must spend extended time outside in smoky conditions, a properly fitting NIOSH-approved N95 or P100 respirator can reduce how much fine particulate matter you breathe in.

The respirator has to fit tightly around your nose and mouth to work. People with respiratory or cardiovascular conditions should follow their healthcare provider’s advice.

Watch for Smoke-Related Symptoms

Pay attention to how you and your family feel during poor air quality. People with asthma, COPD or heart disease should keep medications on hand and follow their care plans, and contact a healthcare provider if symptoms become unusual or worsen.

When to get help right away

Seek immediate medical help for severe difficulty breathing, significant chest pain or other signs of a medical emergency.

Can Your HVAC System Remove All Wildfire Smoke?

No home HVAC system can guarantee completely smoke-free air. A well-chosen filter reduces airborne particles, but it may not remove every particle, odor or gas tied to wildfire smoke. The best results come from combining several strategies.

The layered approach that works best

1. Keep outdoor smoke from getting in
2. Recirculate indoor air
3. Use the best HVAC filter your system can safely handle
4. Add portable HEPA filtration where you need it
5. Reduce other sources of indoor pollution

Frequently Asked Questions

Let Peterman Brothers Help You Breathe Easier

Not sure your current filter is right for your system? Concerned about your home’s indoor air quality? Our team can inspect your system, confirm the filter ratings it can safely support, and walk you through whole-home indoor air quality solutions.

Explore Indoor Air Quality Services

Ready to talk it through? Contact Peterman Brothers today and let’s improve the air inside your home.

Your A/C is running. So why does the air still feel thick and sticky?

Most people think of air conditioning as a cooling system — and it is. But it’s also a dehumidifier. As warm air passes over the coil inside your unit, moisture gets pulled out before the air circulates back into your home. When that process breaks down, you feel it before you ever see it. Here’s what’s actually behind it, why it matters more than most people realize, and what to do about it.

• 5 Root Causes: Most problems trace back to these
• 24–48 Hours: For mold to grow in high humidity
• 45% Ideal RH: Relative humidity target for a home
• Same Day Fixes: Thanks to our stocked trucks

“Your A/C running doesn’t mean your A/C is working. There’s a difference between a system that’s on and a system that’s actually doing its job.”

5 Reasons Your House Stays Humid With the A/C On

The symptom is obvious. The cause usually isn’t, and getting the wrong diagnosis means the problem comes right back.

1: Your System Is Too Big for Your Home: Very Common

This one surprises people. An oversized unit for your square footage cools the air so quickly that it shuts off before it can pull enough moisture out. The temperature drops, the thermostat is satisfied, and the cycle ends — but the humidity stays. This is called short cycling, and it’s one of the most common reasons a house feels cold and clammy at the same time.

Watch for:

• The house cools fast, but still feels damp and uncomfortable.
• The system turns on and off more frequently than it should.
• The air feels cold but is not actually comfortable.
• The problem has been present since the system was installed.

2: The Evaporator Coil Is Dirty or Frozen: Act Soon

The evaporator coil inside your system is what actually pulls moisture out of the air. When it’s coated in dust or has frozen over, it can’t do its job. A frozen coil is also a sign of a deeper problem — low refrigerant, restricted airflow, or a failing component — that worsens the longer the system runs in that condition.

Watch for:

• Ice is visible on the indoor unit or refrigerant lines.
• Weak or barely-there airflow from vents.
• Water is pooling near the indoor unit.
• The system is running constantly without bringing any relief.

3: Refrigerant Is Low: High Concern

Refrigerant is what enables heat exchange in your system. When the level drops — almost always due to a leak — the coil doesn’t cool enough to effectively pull moisture out of the air. Your house may eventually cool down, but humidity stays elevated. Low refrigerant also puts real stress on the compressor over time, turning what would have been a straightforward repair into a much larger one.

Watch for:

• Air coming from vents feels warmer than it should.
• The system runs significantly longer than usual.
• Energy bills are creeping up without explanation.
• A hissing or bubbling sound near the outdoor unit.

4: Your Ductwork Is Leaking: Investigate

If the ducts carrying cooled, dehumidified air through your home have gaps or separations, that conditioned air escapes into attics, crawl spaces, and wall cavities before it ever reaches the rooms you’re living in. Warm, humid air gets pulled in to replace it. Your system works harder trying to compensate — and the humidity stays put.

Watch for:

• Some rooms feel humid, while others are comfortable.
• Noticeably uneven cooling throughout the house.
• The system runs almost constantly during hot days.
• Energy bills are higher than they should be.

5: The Condensate Drain Line Is Clogged: Act Soon

The moisture your A/C pulls from the air has to go somewhere — it drains out through a condensate line. When that line gets blocked by algae or debris, water backs up. Some systems have a safety shutoff that stops the unit when this happens. Others keep running while standing water creates a humidity and mold problem of its own — sometimes spreading to the drain pan and surrounding areas.

About That Musty Smell From Your Vents

A musty odor when the A/C runs usually points to a clogged drain line or a dirty coil. Mold can begin growing inside ductwork and drain pans within 24–48 hours when moisture sits. That’s not just a comfort issue — it’s an air quality one, and it tends to spread if left alone.

Watch for:

• Musty or stale smell when the system kicks on.
• Water staining or rust near the indoor unit.
• System shuts off unexpectedly mid-cycle.
• Visible moisture or standing water around the drain pan.

A Few Things Worth Checking Yourself First

Before calling anyone, these are genuinely worth a look — and they take two minutes.

• Check your air filter. A clogged filter restricts airflow and can directly cause the coil to freeze. If it’s grey and dense, replace it.
• Check your vents. Make sure all supply and return vents are open and not blocked by furniture or rugs.
• Check your thermostat fan setting. Set it to “auto,” not “on” — running the fan continuously can pull moisture back off the drain pan and recirculate it.
• Look at the indoor unit. Any ice, visible moisture, or water staining nearby is a sign that something needs attention before it gets worse.

Still Feeling It? Let’s Find Out Why.

The symptom is visible. The cause usually isn’t — and the wrong diagnosis means you’ll be right back here in a few weeks. Our technicians will tell you exactly what’s happening, in plain language, before any work starts.

Getting the right diagnosis the first time is always cheaper than getting the wrong one twice.

If you’re shopping for a new air conditioner or heat pump, you’ll probably hear a lot about SEER ratings.

But in 2026, there’s another term you need to know: SEER2.

SEER2 is the current efficiency rating used for new central air conditioners and heat pumps. The higher the number, the more cooling the system can provide for the electricity it uses.

So, what is a good SEER2 rating?

For many homeowners, a system in the 15–17 SEER2 range can offer a strong balance of efficiency and upfront cost. Higher-efficiency systems can go well beyond that, but the highest rating is not automatically the best choice for every home.

Your climate, how often you use your AC, the condition of your ductwork, system sizing, and your budget all matter.

What does SEER2 mean?

SEER2 stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio 2. It measures how efficiently an air conditioner or heat pump cools your home over a typical cooling season.

The U.S. Department of Energy introduced the SEER2 rating system in 2023 along with updated testing procedures designed to better represent real-world operating conditions.

In simple terms:

Higher SEER2 = greater cooling efficiency.

A higher-rated system generally uses less electricity to provide the same amount of cooling as a lower-rated system under comparable conditions.

That can mean lower cooling costs over time, especially in homes where the AC runs frequently.

SEER vs. SEER2: What’s the difference?

SEER and SEER2 measure the same basic thing: seasonal cooling efficiency.

The difference is how the equipment is tested.

SEER2 uses updated Department of Energy testing procedures, including conditions intended to better represent the resistance an HVAC system experiences when moving air through a home’s ductwork. Because the testing method changed, you should not compare a SEER number and a SEER2 number as if they use the exact same scale.

If you’re replacing an older system, you may see its efficiency listed in SEER. When comparing new equipment in 2026, look at the SEER2 rating instead.

What is the minimum SEER2 rating in 2026?

There isn’t one minimum SEER2 rating for every air conditioner in every part of the country.

Federal standards vary based on the type of equipment and, for certain central air conditioners, where the system is installed.

Indiana and Ohio

Indiana and Ohio are part of the federal North region.

For standard split-system central air conditioners, the federal minimum is 13.4 SEER2 for equipment subject to the current standards.

Kentucky

Kentucky is part of the federal Southeast region, where requirements for split-system central air conditioners are higher.

Current minimums are:

• 14.3 SEER2 for split-system air conditioners below 45,000 BTU/h.

• 13.8 SEER2 for split-system air conditioners at or above 45,000 BTU/h.

Heat pumps

Split-system heat pumps use a national standard rather than the same regional AC requirements.

The current federal minimum for a standard split-system heat pump is 14.3 SEER2 for cooling and 7.5 HSPF2 for heating.

Your HVAC professional can confirm which efficiency requirements apply to the specific equipment being installed in your home.

So, what is a good SEER2 rating?

Meeting the minimum standard doesn’t necessarily mean you’ve found the best system for your home.

Here’s a simple way to think about your options:

• Around the minimum: An entry-level option that meets applicable efficiency requirements and may have a lower upfront cost.

• 15–17 SEER2: A strong middle ground for many homeowners looking for better efficiency without automatically moving into the highest-priced equipment.

• 18+ SEER2: High-efficiency equipment that may offer greater energy savings and often includes more advanced system technology.

These are general shopping ranges, not official federal efficiency categories.

The right number depends on how much you’ll actually benefit from the additional efficiency.

Is a higher SEER2 rating always better?

Not necessarily.

A 20 SEER2 system is more efficient on paper than a 15 SEER2 system, but that doesn’t automatically mean it’s the better investment for your home.

Consider:

• How long you plan to stay in the home. More time in the home can give you more opportunity to benefit from energy savings.

• How much your AC runs. Homes with longer or hotter cooling seasons may see more value from higher efficiency.

• Your current energy costs. Higher electricity rates can make efficiency more valuable.

• Your home’s insulation and ductwork. An efficient HVAC system can still lose performance through leaky ducts, poor airflow, or a home that loses conditioned air quickly.

• The upfront cost. The additional energy savings should make sense compared with the additional price of the equipment.

Efficiency matters, but it is only one part of choosing the right system.

How much can a higher SEER2 rating save?

The greater the difference in efficiency between two properly matched systems, the less electricity the higher-SEER2 system should need to produce the same amount of cooling under comparable conditions.

But your SEER2 rating cannot tell you exactly what your utility bill will be.

Actual savings depend on things like:

• Outdoor temperatures

• Thermostat settings

• Electricity rates

• Home size and insulation

• Duct condition

• Equipment sizing

• Installation quality

• How often the system runs

That’s why claims like “doubling your SEER rating will cut your entire energy bill in half” can be misleading. SEER2 applies to cooling efficiency, not every source of energy use in your home.

Does a furnace have a SEER2 rating?

No.

This is an important distinction if you’re replacing a complete HVAC system.

Air conditioners use SEER2 to measure seasonal cooling efficiency.

Heat pumps use SEER2 for cooling efficiency and HSPF2 for heating efficiency.

Gas furnaces use AFUE, or Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency, to measure how efficiently they convert fuel into heat.

So if you’re comparing a complete furnace and air conditioner system, you’ll likely be looking at both an AFUE rating and a SEER2 rating.

What else should you consider besides SEER2?

SEER2 matters, but don’t shop by one number alone.

Proper system sizing

Bigger isn’t automatically better.

An HVAC system should be sized for the home’s heating and cooling needs. An oversized or undersized system can affect comfort, humidity control, efficiency, and equipment performance.

Single-stage, two-stage, or variable-speed operation

Two systems with good efficiency ratings can feel very different inside your home.

Equipment with multiple stages or variable-speed operation can adjust its output instead of operating at full capacity every time it turns on. Depending on the system, that can help maintain more consistent temperatures and humidity levels.

Installation quality

Even highly efficient equipment needs to be installed and set up correctly.

Airflow, refrigerant charge, ductwork, equipment matching, and other installation details can all affect how the system performs once it’s in your home.

Your budget

The goal isn’t to buy the biggest SEER2 number available.

It’s to find the system that gives you the right combination of comfort, efficiency, features, and cost for your home.

Are rebates available for high-efficiency HVAC systems?

They may be.

Utility companies, manufacturers, and local programs can offer rebates or incentives for qualifying high-efficiency equipment. Programs and eligibility requirements change, so check what’s currently available when you’re ready to replace your system.

Your HVAC professional can also help you identify qualifying equipment and understand which incentives may apply.

Choosing the right SEER2 rating for your home

A good SEER2 rating isn’t just the highest number on the equipment label.

It’s the rating that makes sense for your home, your comfort goals, and what you want to spend.

Start by comparing:

• The system’s SEER2 rating

• Upfront equipment and installation costs

• Expected energy use

• System features and comfort benefits

• Warranty coverage

• Your home’s heating and cooling needs

You shouldn’t have to sort through efficiency ratings and equipment options by yourself.

Peterman Brothers can evaluate your home, explain your options in plain language, and help you find a system that fits your comfort and budget.

Get an Estimate for a New HVAC System

The Truth Behind Quick Fixes

A lot of repairs look finished. The wall is smooth. The drip stopped. The outlet works.

But “looks fixed” and “is fixed” are not the same thing.

Most home repair failures come from one thing: the deeper cause never got solved. Someone treated the symptom, not the problem. And because the surface looks better, the home gets put back on autopilot… until the same issue comes back louder, wetter, or more expensive.

That’s the trap with home maintenance and repair durability: the best work often isn’t the prettiest. It’s the work you don’t notice because it holds up through seasons, stress, and time.

Common Reasons Home Repairs Fail

Incomplete Root-Cause Diagnosis

A “repair” can be a patch. A true fix is a diagnosis.

Patch job: stops the visible issue today.

True fix: stops the root cause of the issue in the first place.

Common misses:

• Fixing a stain without finding the leak path.
• Replacing a part without asking why it failed early.
• Sealing a gap without checking airflow, moisture, or pressure, causing the gap to open.

Why does it happen?

• The contractor is rushed.
• The person isn’t trained to troubleshoot.
• The job is priced like a quick hit, not a full investigation.

If the diagnosis is wrong, the repair is a guess. Sometimes guesses hold. Often they don’t.

• Fixing a stain without finding the leak path.
• Replacing a part without asking why it failed early.
• Sealing a gap without checking airflow, moisture, or pressure, causing the gap to open.

Low-Quality Materials Used

Materials matter more than people think, especially in places that see heat swings, humidity, and freeze/thaw cycles.

Low-grade materials fail faster because they:

• Warp
• Crack
• Corrode
• Loosen under vibration or expansion

Budget cutting usually shows up in:

• Thin fittings
• Bargain sealants
• Off-brand electrical devices
• “Close enough” parts that don’t match specs

Improper Technique or Workmanship

Even great materials can fail with bad technique.

This is where contractor standards matter, especially for plumbing and electrical, where “almost right” can still be wrong.

Common workmanship failures:

• Joints not prepped correctly.
• Connections not tightened or torqued to spec
• Missing supports/straps that prevent sagging over time
• Shortcuts that work today but can’t handle normal stress

Skilled labor shortages add fuel here. Some people are learning on the job. Some are “handy” but not trained. The difference shows up months later.

Environmental and Structural Overlooks

Homes move. The weather pushes. Water finds new paths.

Repairs fail when someone ignores the environment the house lives in:

• Moisture patterns (bath fans, crawl spaces, attic ventilation)
• Foundation settling or framing movement
• Old materials meeting new materials
• Regional weather (heavy rain, humidity, freeze/thaw)

Example: A crack gets caulked, but the real issues are shifting, water pressure, and poor drainage. Caulk loses that fight every time.

When “Looking Fixed” Isn’t Good Enough

Cosmetic Fixes That Mask Bigger Problems

Some fixes are only superficial.

A few classic “looks good, still broken” moves:

• Painting over mold instead of fixing moisture and removing affected material.
• Patching drywall without stopping the leak that caused it.
• Caulking a window when the flashing/drainage plane is failing.
• Replacing a trap or fitting while ignoring pipe pitch, venting, or pressure issues.

Why it fools people: the eye wants closure. A clean surface feels like the story ended.

But the house doesn’t care about the story. It cares about physics.

The Delay Cost of False Confidence

When a repair seems fine, homeowners tend to wait. This delay increases the real cost.

False confidence leads to:

• Hidden rot spreading
• Mold getting a head start
• Small electrical heat issues becoming bigger ones
• Repeated service calls, repeated drywall work, repeated frustration.

It also creates a trust problem:

• “I paid for this already.”
• “Why is it back?”
• “Who do I believe next time?”

A good repair fixes the problem and restores your confidence.

Case Studies: Real-World Repair Failures

(These are common patterns seen across different houses, same failure logic.)

Plumbing Disasters After Quick Fixes

What happened: A pipe leaked under a sink. Someone tightened a connection and swapped a washer. The leak stopped.

Why it failed again:

The pipe was under stress due to slight misalignment, vibration, and thread corrosion. Tightening it bought time, but didn’t remove the cause.

What a better fix looks like:

• Inspect for pipe strain and support.
• Replace the stressed section.
• Correct alignment so the connection isn’t fighting gravity.
• Confirm no slow seep after pressure changes.

Lesson: Tightening to stop a leak? That fix is usually temporary.

Electrical Work That Seemed Safe Until It Wasn’t

What happened: An outlet was “fixed” and worked again. No more flicker.

Why was it dangerous?

A loose connection, an incorrect device rating, or a poor splice can still pass power… while generating heat.

Common red flags behind “working but wrong” electrical work:

• Backstabbed connections loosen over time.
• Overloaded circuits masked by “it hasn’t tripped yet.”
• Improper wire nuts or mixed wire types without correct connectors
• Missing grounding or mislabeled breakers

Lesson: Electrical danger may show up as heat, not an outage.

How to Avoid Failed Repairs

Ask for a Root-Cause Explanation

Before you approve the repair, ask questions that force clarity.

Good questions:

• “What caused this, specifically?”
• “What would make this issue come back?”
• “What did you check to rule out other causes?”
• “If you were fixing this for your own house, what would you do differently if anything?”

You’re listening for logic, not confidence.

Demand Transparency on Materials and Techniques

You don’t need a lecture. You need visibility.

Ask for:

• The brand/model (or grade) of key materials used.
• What method are they using and why.
• What they’re not doing (and why that’s okay).

Red flags in quotes/invoices:

• Vague lines like “repair as needed.”
• No details on what’s being replaced vs reused.
• No mention of scope boundaries (“what’s included / not included”).

Get Second Opinions on Major Issues

For expensive work (major plumbing lines, panels, foundation, HVAC replacement), a second opinion can save you from:

• Overpaying for the wrong fix.
• Under-fixing something that will fail again.

A good second opinion should answer:

• “Is the diagnosis right?”
• “Is the scope right?”
• “Is there a simpler fix that still solves the cause?”

Know the Signs of a Band-Aid Fix

In the weeks after the work, watch for:

• Stains returning (even faint)
• Musty smells
• Repeated trips, flickers, and dimming lights
• Caulk cracking or separating quickly
• “It only happens when…” patterns (rain, cold snaps, heavy use)

A real fix becomes quieter over time; a band-aid grows noisier.

When It’s Time to Re-Do or Escalate: Recognizing Failing Repairs

Look for warning signs like:

• Water: stains, bubbling paint, swelling trim, warped flooring, recurring humidity.
• Structure: cracks that re-open, doors that suddenly stick, and trim separating.
• Plumbing: slow leaks, low pressure, repeated clogs, water hammer.
• Electrical: warm plates, burning smell, buzzing, flicker under load, frequent breaker trips.

If the issues recur, the cause wasn’t addressed; a redo is needed.

Legal and Insurance Options for Poor Workmanship

Not legal advice, just common, practical steps that often help.

If workmanship is clearly poor:

• Document everything
  • Photos/videos (before, during, if possible, after)
  • Dates, invoices, texts/emails
  • What failed and when
• Request a written plan to correct it.
  • Scope, timeline, and who pays for what
• Check warranties
  • Labor warranty from the contractor
  • Manufacturer warranty on parts/materials (separate from labor)
• Escalate if needed
  • Contractor’s management/owner
  • Local licensing board (if applicable)
  • Consumer protection office in your state
  • Your insurance agent if there’s damage (coverage varies)
  • An attorney for large losses or refusal to correct

Even when you’re frustrated, staying organized and factual gives you the best leverage.

Are There Warranties That Cover Bad Repair Jobs?

Sometimes. Many contractors offer labor warranties, and many products have manufacturer warranties, but they don’t cover the same things. Manufacturer warranties often cover defective parts, not installation. Labor warranties cover workmanship, but terms vary a lot. Always get warranty details in writing.

Want a Second Set of Eyes?

If you’ve got a repair that works… but you don’t trust it, that feeling is worth listening to. If something was “fixed” and you’re seeing the same signs creeping back—or you just want a second set of eyes before it turns into a bigger mess, we’re here to help.

We’ll walk you through what’s really going on, what it will take to solve it, and what you can expect, so you can move forward with confidence.

Picking the right HVAC size is key for comfort, humidity, energy use, and how long your system will last. This guide explains what sizing means, what affects it, and how to find the right answer for your home.

Key Takeaways

• HVAC size = capacity. For AC and heat pumps, capacity is often shown in tons, and 1 ton = 12,000 BTU/hr of cooling.
• Charts based on square footage are just a starting point. Insulation, windows, ceiling height, layout, and climate can all make a big difference.
• Manual J is the best method. It’s the ANSI-recognized way to figure out how much heating and cooling a home needs.
• Ductwork matters for comfort. Even if your equipment is the right size, it won’t feel right if the ducts can’t move enough air. Manual D is the standard for duct design.
• Bigger isn’t always better. If a system is too large, it can turn on and off too often, which makes comfort and humidity control worse.

What “HVAC Size” Really Means

When HVAC companies mention “size,” they’re talking about how much heating or cooling the system provides, not how big the unit is.

• 1 ton = 12,000 BTU/hr
• BTU = British Thermal Unit (a unit of heat)
• BTU/hr = how much heat the system can add/remove in an hour
• Tons (cooling) = another way to express cooling capacity

So a “3-ton AC” is roughly 36,000 BTU/hr of cooling capacity.

Why Sizing Matters More Than You Think

A properly sized system does more than just reach the set temperature. It helps your whole home feel comfortable and consistent in every room.

If the System Is Too Large

Oversized systems often cool the area near the thermostat quickly and then shut off, only to start up again soon after. This is called short cycling and it can:

• Create temperature swings
• Increase wear from frequent starts/stops
• Lead to higher humidity because the system may not run long enough to adequately remove moisture from the air

If the System Is Too Small

Undersized systems can:

• Run for long stretches on extreme weather days
• Struggle to reach the set temperature
• Leave certain rooms behind, especially in multi-story homes

What Determines the HVAC Size Your Home Needs

Square footage matters, but it’s only one piece. A home’s “load” (how much heating and cooling it needs) is affected by:

• Ceiling height and layout (vaulted ceilings, open staircases, two-story designs)
• Insulation and air leakage (drafty homes need more capacity; tighter homes need less)
• Windows (size, efficiency, and direction they face)
• Sun exposure and shade (attic heat, roof exposure, tree coverage)
• Local climate (design temperatures and humidity)

That’s why two homes with the same square footage can actually need different HVAC sizes.

BTU and Ton Estimates by Square Footage

A lot of people start by looking for a “tons per square foot” answer. This can give you a rough idea, but it shouldn’t be your final choice.

A common rule of thumb for cooling is about 20 to 25 BTU per square foot, but you should adjust this based on your home’s construction and layout.

Cooling Size Ranges (Starting Points)

What Makes You Need More or Less Cooling?

You’ll often fall toward the higher end if your home has:

• High ceilings
• Lots of west-facing glass
• Weak insulation or noticeable drafts

You’ll often fall toward the lower end if your home has:

• Strong insulation and good air sealing
• Efficient windows and good shade

The Pro Way To Size Hvac Equipment

The most reliable way to find the right size is to use a process that removes the guesswork.

Manual J (Load Calculation)

A Manual J calculation measures your home’s heating and cooling load. ACCA notes it’s the national ANSI-recognized standard for producing residential sizing loads.

Manual J Looks At:

• Insulation levels
• Window types and orientation
• Air leakage
• Square footage and ceiling height
• Local climate data
• Internal heat gains (people, appliances, lighting)

Manual S (Equipment Selection)

After the load is known, Manual S is used to select equipment that matches the calculated load properly.

Manual D (Duct Design)

If a home uses ductwork, Manual D addresses duct sizing and design so the right airflow reaches each room. This is important because problems with airflow can make a system that’s the right size still feel uncomfortable.

What To Ask an HVAC Contractor

If you want to feel sure about your purchase, ask these questions to make sure the process is done right:

1. Will you run a Manual J load calculation for my home?
2. Can you show me the heating and cooling load results?
3. How are you matching equipment to those results (Manual S)?
4. Are you evaluating duct sizing or airflow (Manual D / airflow testing)?
5. If you recommend upsizing, what changed and why?

A good contractor should be able to clearly explain why they recommend a certain size.

HVAC Sizing FAQ:

• Is a bigger system always better?
  No. Oversized systems can short-cycle, which hurts comfort and can reduce humidity removal.
• Can I size an AC unit by square footage alone?
  You can estimate a range, but the most accurate sizing comes from Manual J.
• Do high ceilings change what size HVAC unit I need?
  Often yes. Higher ceilings increase air volume and can affect airflow patterns.
• If my ducts are leaky, should I just buy a bigger unit?
  Usually no. Duct issues can waste comfort and energy. Fixing airflow and duct problems often solves the real issue better than upsizing.

Bonus Tips Homeowners Can Miss:

• Ductwork can be the bottleneck. A system can be the right size, but if ducts are too small, leaky, poorly designed, or poorly insulated, it still won’t heat/cool well or efficiently—this is a common issue in many homes.
  
• Don’t assume “replace it with the same size.” Home improvements (windows, insulation, air sealing) and remodels can change what your home needs.
  
• Additions change the math. Finished basements, converted attics, sunrooms, and garage conversions often require a load recalibration (and sometimes updated ductwork) before selecting equipment.

Next Steps

If you need help choosing the right size, or if you already know what system you want and just need expert advice on the details, our team is here for you. We’ll visit your home, talk about your comfort goals, and use proven sizing methods like a Manual J load calculation to find the best fit. When you’re ready, contact us to set up an assessment and get clear, data-backed answers for your home

Why Choosing the Right Furnace Filter Matters

Effects on HVAC Performance, Efficiency & Energy Bills

Your furnace filter isn’t just a dust trap—it directly affects how well your HVAC system runs.
A clogged or incorrect filter can restrict airflow, causing your system to overwork and increasing energy use by up to 15%.

How Furnace Filters Impact Indoor Air Quality (IAQ)

Filters capture dust, dander, and allergens before they circulate through your home.
The better the filter, the fewer airborne irritants linger—especially important for allergy sufferers and households with pets.

Consequences of Using the Wrong Filter Type

Using the wrong size or an overly restrictive filter can damage your blower motor, decrease efficiency, and reduce your system’s lifespan.
Correct fit and rating are essential for both safety and performance.

Step-by-Step: How to Choose the Best Furnace Filter

Step 1: Find the Correct Filter Size

Where to Find Furnace Filter Size

Check the edge of your old filter—it typically lists the dimensions (e.g., 16×25×1).
No label? Measure the opening where the filter sits.

Why Exact Fit Matters

An ill-fitting filter leaves gaps that let dust bypass filtration.
Always match your system’s required size exactly to maintain airflow efficiency and protect internal components.

Step 2: Understand MERV Ratings (1–16+)

What MERV Ratings Mean

MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value) measures how well a filter captures particles:

• MERV 1–4: Basic protection
• MERV 5–8: Ideal for most homes
• MERV 9–12: Better for pets/allergies
• MERV 13+: Medical-grade—usually too restrictive for residential units

Best MERV Ratings by Home Type

Most homes perform best with MERV 8 or MERV 11 filters—strong enough to trap allergens, gentle enough on your system.

When High MERV Filters Cause HVAC Strain

Using a MERV 13+ filter in a standard furnace can reduce airflow and increase wear.
Unless your HVAC system is rated for it, avoid ultra-high MERVs.

Step 3: Avoid Overhyped or Problematic Filters

Scented, Reusable, and Gimmicky Filters to Skip

• “Odor-reducing” and “fragrance-infused” filters often mask issues rather than solve them.
• Washable filters can trap moisture, which can lead to mold.
• High-MERV filters may cause more harm than good.

Why Pleated Filters Are the Best Value

Pleated filters balance cost, performance, and durability.
They capture fine particles without reducing airflow, making them ideal for long-term system health.

What to Avoid

Don’t bend or force the filter. Avoid loose installs, which allow dust to bypass the filter entirely.

When to Replace Your Furnace Filter

Filter Lifespan by Thickness

• 1–2 inch filters: Replace every 1–3 months
• 3–4 inch filters: Every 6–9 months
• 5–6 inch filters: Every 9–12 months

Replacement Frequency for Pets, Allergies, and Heavy Use

If you have pets, allergy concerns, or high usage, change filters more often.
Monitor for visible dirt or reduced airflow.

Signs Your Filter Needs Replacing

• Dust around vents
• Higher energy bills
• A visibly gray or clogged filter
• Reduced airflow or strange furnace sounds

Make It Easy: Join a Furnace Filter Delivery Program

What Is the Filter Saver Club?

A subscription service that delivers the exact filter size and rating you need on a custom schedule.

Benefits of Scheduled Filter Delivery

• Healthier Air at Home
  Reduce allergens like dust, pollen, pet dander, & mold spores.
• Time-Saving Convenience
  Delivered to your door. Choose the best frequency and filters for your home.
• Most Competitive Pricing
  Affordable options to find the perfect filters for your budget and lifestyle.
• Preventive Maintenance
  Clean filters help your HVAC system run its best and avoid early wear and tear.

How to Subscribe

Visit FilterSaverClub.com and enter your filter size and frequency.
Set it and forget it.

FAQ: Furnace Filter Tips You Won’t Find on the Label

What’s the difference between pleated and fiberglass filters?

Fiberglass filters are cheaper but less effective—they only trap larger particles, such as lint or hair.
Pleated filters use denser material to catch smaller allergens, dust, and even mold spores.

Can I vacuum and reuse a disposable filter in a pinch?

It’s not recommended. Vacuuming damages the filter media and compromises its integrity.
It may look cleaner, but it won’t trap fine particles effectively after being vacuumed.

Are HEPA filters good for furnaces?

HEPA filters offer excellent filtration but are generally not compatible with standard residential HVAC systems due to high airflow resistance.
Use only if your system supports HEPA explicitly or has a bypass unit.

Final Takeaway

Best Practices for Furnace Filter Maintenance

Choosing the right furnace filter—and replacing it on time—is one of the easiest ways to protect your HVAC system, lower energy bills, and improve your home’s air quality. If you have any questions or need help installing yours, feel free to reach out.

Long-Term Benefits for Your System and Wallet

Want to take the guesswork out of it?
The Filter Saver Club delivers your filters on time, every time—so your system (and lungs) can breathe easy.

Why Catch HVAC Issues Early?

Your HVAC system doesn’t come with a dashboard alert—but it does give off early warning signs. If you catch them in time, you can avoid uncomfortable breakdowns, high energy bills, and expensive repairs. Most experts recommend servicing your system twice a year—once in spring and again in fall.

Regular maintenance boosts:
– System efficiency
– Comfort and air quality
– Equipment lifespan

It also protects your warranty and helps avoid sudden, costly failures.

1. Strange Noises (Grinding, Squealing, or Banging)

HVAC systems are meant to run quietly. If yours starts making squealing, rattling, or grinding noises, that could mean a loose belt, worn bearings, or electrical issues. Left unchecked, these can quickly lead to complete system failure or costly damage.

What to do: Schedule a professional inspection to catch the cause early—before it gets louder (and more expensive).

2. Musty or Burning Smells

Unusual odors are never “normal.” Musty smells could signal mold buildup in your ductwork, while burning smells may point to electrical overheating. Both can affect your air quality and safety.

What to do: Shut the system off and call for service. These issues are best addressed immediately.

3. Weak Airflow or Uneven Heating/Cooling

If certain rooms are harder to heat or cool—or the airflow feels weaker than usual—your blower fan, ducts, or filter may be the culprit. This can lead to poor performance and rising energy bills.

What to do: Don’t just crank up the thermostat. Let a pro inspect your system for blockages, leaks, or fan issues.

4. Short Cycling or Running Constantly

Short cycling (where your system turns on and off repeatedly) is hard on components and inefficient. Running constantly means something’s off with system sizing, insulation, or internal wear.

What to do: A technician can test your thermostat, refrigerant levels, and system calibration to fix the root cause.

5. Unexplained Energy Bill Spikes

Has your electric bill jumped without a change in usage? That’s often a sign your system is overworking—due to dirty filters, clogged coils, or a failing part.

What to do: Schedule a maintenance check to restore efficiency before your next billing cycle.

6. Water Leaks or Moisture Around the Unit

Condensate lines can clog. Evaporator coils can freeze. Either way, water leaking around your unit isn’t just messy—it’s a warning sign of deeper issues.

What to do: Shut the system off and call a technician before it causes mold or water damage.

7. High Humidity Indoors

HVAC systems help dehumidify your home. If your air feels muggy or sticky even when the system’s on, it might be failing to regulate humidity.

What to do: Have your system checked to improve comfort and indoor air quality—especially in Indiana’s humid months.

8. Frequent Repairs or a System Over 10 Years Old

If you’re calling for repairs more than once a year—or your system’s over a decade old—it might be losing efficiency and reliability.

What to do: Consider whether a new system would save more long-term than continued repairs

9. Thermostat Problems or Inaccurate Readings

If your thermostat isn’t responding, the temperature never feels right, or your settings don’t match performance, it may be miscalibrated, the system itself is lagging, or even in a bad location.

What to do: Let us check both the thermostat and HVAC unit to restore comfort and control.

10. You’re Not Changing Filters Regularly

Dirty filters are the #1 cause of preventable HVAC problems—they restrict airflow, strain your system, and reduce indoor air quality. But changing them is easy to forget

Enter: The Filter Saver Club

We created the Filter Saver Club to make filter changes completely hassle-free.

Here’s how it works:
– You tell us your system and filter size
– We deliver new filters right to your door, on your schedule
– No trips to the store, no forgetting, no stress

Why it matters:
– Keeps your air cleaner and healthier
– Protects your HVAC system from early wear
– Helps lower energy costs
– Extends system lifespan

It’s one of the easiest things you can do to prevent breakdowns—and it’s surprisingly affordable. Join now, and we’ll handle the rest.

When Should You Call a Pro?

If you notice:
– Burning or electrical odors
– No airflow or cooling
– Leaking water
– Loud or unusual noises
– Your HVAC runs but doesn’t cool or heat properly

…it’s time to call the experts at Peterman Brothers.

We proudly offer HVAC Maintenance Services across Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, and parts of Michigan, including routine tune-ups, complete diagnostics, and seasonal checkups.

Quick HVAC Maintenance FAQ for Homeowners

How often should I service my HVAC?
Twice a year—once in spring (A/C) and once in fall (heating).

How often should I replace filters?
Every 1–3 months, depending on usage and filter type. Our Filter Saver Club helps automate it.

Can I do HVAC maintenance myself?
You can handle filter changes and basic cleaning. But inspections, refrigerant checks, and electrical components should be left to pros.

Your HVAC system rarely fails out of nowhere—it gives signs. If you’ve noticed any of the ones we’ve listed, now’s the time to act. Catching problems early means lower costs, better comfort, and peace of mind.

👉 Schedule HVAC Service
👉 Join the Filter Saver Club

If your home has felt especially muggy lately, you’re not imagining it.

Many homeowners across the Midwest are noticing more humidity than usual this time of summer. Even with the air conditioner running, rooms still feel damp, and indoor air just doesn’t feel as comfortable as it should.

One surprising reason for this extra stickiness? A real weather effect known as “corn sweat.”

In this article, we’ll explain what corn sweat is, how it impacts the comfort of your home, and what steps you can take to maintain healthier, drier indoor air—all with the help of trusted solutions from Peterman Brothers.

What Is “Corn Sweat”?

“Corn sweat” is a nickname for a natural process known as transpiration. As corn plants grow, especially in July and August, they release large amounts of water vapor through their leaves into the air.

This is part of how the plant stays healthy and cools itself. But when you multiply this effect by the millions of acres of cornfields across the Midwest, it becomes a noticeable factor in our summer humidity.

In fact, one acre of mature corn can release up to 4,000 gallons of water per day into the atmosphere. With so much farmland in Indiana, Ohio, Illinois, and nearby states, this moisture builds up quickly and raises the humidity levels across our region.

How “Corn Sweat” Affects Summer Humidity

Why It Feels Hotter Than It Is

As the air becomes more saturated with moisture, your body finds it harder to cool itself. That’s why on a humid day, 80 degrees might feel closer to 90 or even 95.

This is especially common during what meteorologists call a “heat dome”—when high pressure traps hot, humid air close to the ground.

Corn sweat adds even more moisture to the mix, raising dew points by 5 to 10 degrees in some areas. The result? Hot, heavy air both outside and inside your home.

The Impact on Your Home and Air Conditioning System

Your air conditioning system is designed to do two important things:

1. Lower the indoor temperature
2. Remove excess moisture from the air

When outdoor humidity levels spike, your A/C system works much harder to handle the extra moisture. That can lead to:

• Sticky or clammy indoor air
• A/C running longer than usual
• Foggy windows or damp surfaces
• Musty odors or even mold concerns

Over time, this additional strain can increase energy bills and reduce the life of your equipment.

What You Can Do to Stay Comfortable

Everyday Tips for Reducing Indoor Humidity

• Run exhaust fans while cooking or showering
• Keep windows and doors closed during high-humidity hours
• Use ceiling fans to help move air throughout your home
• Monitor indoor humidity levels with a simple hygrometer (ideal levels: 40%–50%)

Still feeling the effects of excess moisture? It may be time to explore professional solutions that work with your HVAC system.

How Peterman Brothers Can Help You Feel More Comfortable at Home

At Peterman Brothers, we’ve helped thousands of homeowners across Indiana and the Midwest take control of indoor humidity, especially during the peak summer months.

Here are a few solutions we offer:

Whole-Home Dehumidifiers

A whole-home dehumidifier works with your existing heating and cooling system to remove moisture throughout the entire house.

Benefits include:

• Consistent comfort in every room
• Lower risk of mold, mildew, and musty odors
• Reduced strain on your air conditioner
• Protection for wood floors, furniture, and electronics

Learn more about our Dehumidifier services.

High-Efficiency A/C Systems With Humidity Control

If your air conditioning unit is older or oversized, it may cool the air quickly but fail to remove enough moisture.

Today’s variable-speed systems operate at lower speeds for longer periods, allowing them to reduce humidity more effectively while saving on energy costs.

Learn more about our A/C Install Services.

Annual AC Tune-Ups & Moisture Assessments

A simple maintenance visit can make a big difference. We’ll clean your coils, check your system for proper refrigerant levels, and ensure everything is working efficiently.

Regular maintenance helps your system:

• Remove moisture more effectively
• Last longer
• Operate more efficiently

Learn more about our AC Maintenance services.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is “corn sweat” really a major factor in humidity?
Yes. In the Midwest, the combination of cornfields and warm temperatures can significantly increase local humidity levels.

Q: What should indoor humidity be?
Between 40% and 50% is ideal. Higher than that can lead to discomfort and possible mold growth.

Q: Can a dehumidifier help reduce energy bills?
Yes. By removing moisture from the air, your A/C doesn’t have to work as hard to keep you comfortable.

Q: How do I know if my home is too humid?
Look for signs like foggy windows, musty smells, sticky air, or rooms that never seem to feel truly “cool.”

Peterman Brothers Customer Story: A/C Replacement

“This company is top notch! Finding a company that cares in today’s world is very hard. Every person that I have come into contact with from Peterman has been knowledgeable, kind, and made me feel important.

No one has been rushed while being here and they have made sure to explain things in terms I will understand. I bought a brand new air conditioning unit, called in a month later to ask a few questions, and someone was sent out to make sure everything was running perfect!

They go above and beyond to make sure you are happy. It’s unusual to find a company that is calling YOU!! Since they could not get anyone here for a week to replace the unit Jim brought me a window air unit to get me by on his day off! This shows they truly care about the customer.” 

— Stacey C., Indianapolis, IN

Ready to Feel Comfortable Again?

At Peterman Brothers, we know Midwest summers can be challenging. We’re here to help you stay comfortable with trusted HVAC services, humidity solutions, and expert advice.

Serving homeowners throughout Indiana, Kentucky, and Ohio. Find your nearest location.

Call Now | Book Online | Send a Message

⚠️ Fact: Most emergency A/C repairs happen mid-summer. Spotting the signs early can save you thousands—and keep your home comfortable when you need it most.

When your air conditioner starts acting up, it’s easy to overlook the warning signs. But ignoring them can lead to system breakdowns, expensive repairs, and miserable days in the heat.

Here are the five clearest signs your A/C might be headed for failure—and what can happen if you wait too long.

1. Your A/C Is Running, But the Air Isn’t Cool

🔍 Signs to watch for:

• The system is on, but your home still feels warm
• Thermostat settings don’t help
• Weak airflow from vents

Possible causes:

• Low refrigerant levels
• Dirty condenser coils
• Failing compressor

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Your A/C will run constantly without cooling your home, causing high energy bills and putting stress on the compressor. If the compressor fails, you’re looking at one of the most expensive HVAC repairs—or even a full system replacement.

2. Strange Noises Are Coming from the System

🔍 Sounds to notice:

• Grinding, squealing, or screeching
• Clanking or banging
• Hissing or buzzing

Common causes:

• Failing fan motor bearings
• Loose or broken components
• Refrigerant leak or electrical issue

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Mechanical issues tend to snowball. A failing bearing can seize the fan, a loose part can damage others, and refrigerant leaks can destroy the compressor. What starts as a small noise can lead to a full system shutdown.

3. Musty or Moldy Smells When the A/C Runs

🔍 Odors to take seriously:

• Damp or dirty smell when the A/C turns on
• Moldy air, especially near vents

Likely causes:

• Mold growth in the ductwork or coils
• Clogged condensate drain
• Poor drainage or excess moisture

🧬 CDC warns that indoor mold can worsen allergies, asthma, and other respiratory issues.

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Mold spores can spread throughout your home via the ductwork, reducing air quality and potentially harming your health. Moisture buildup can also lead to water damage or corrosion inside your HVAC system.

4. Your Energy Bill Spikes for No Clear Reason

🔍 Signs of inefficiency:

• Electricity bills suddenly rise
• No major change in usage or weather

Main causes:

• Dirty or clogged air filter
• Low refrigerant or coil problems
• System is straining to cool properly

📉 DOE recommends checking filters monthly and scheduling seasonal tune-ups.

What Happens If You Ignore It?

An inefficient system works harder to cool your home, driving up energy use and increasing wear on major components. Over time, this can lead to overheating, electrical problems, and reduced equipment lifespan.

5. Your System Turns On and Off Frequently (Short Cycling)

🔍 What to look for:

• A/C turns on, runs briefly, shuts off
• Repeats this cycle often, especially during hot days

Causes:

• Low refrigerant levels
• Oversized system
• Thermostat sensor issues

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Short cycling stresses your compressor and can cause it to fail prematurely. It also leads to uneven cooling, increased humidity, and skyrocketing energy use.

🚨 Bonus Sign: Water Leaks Around the A/C

🔍 Warning signs:

• Pooling water near the indoor unit
• Moisture around the drain line or pan

Likely causes:

• Blocked condensate drain
• Frozen coils melting
• Drain pan overflow

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Water can damage floors, walls, and ceilings. It also encourages mold growth and can trigger electrical shorts in your system.

Is Your A/C More Than 10 Years Old?

Systems older than 10–15 years are more likely to show signs of wear and are more expensive to repair. If you’re experiencing several of the issues above, and your unit’s over a decade old, it might be time to talk about replacement.

What to Do Next

The earlier you catch these signs, the easier and more affordable the fix. At Peterman Brothers, we’ll help you spot trouble before it turns into a major breakdown—and keep your system running strong all summer long.

📅 Schedule your A/C inspection today
We’ll find the issue fast, fix it right, and keep your house cool when it matters most.