Your A/C is running. So why does the air still feel thick and sticky?

Most people think of air conditioning as a cooling system — and it is. But it’s also a dehumidifier. As warm air passes over the coil inside your unit, moisture gets pulled out before the air circulates back into your home. When that process breaks down, you feel it before you ever see it. Here’s what’s actually behind it, why it matters more than most people realize, and what to do about it.

• 5 Root Causes: Most problems trace back to these
• 24–48 Hours: For mold to grow in high humidity
• 45% Ideal RH: Relative humidity target for a home
• Same Day Fixes: Thanks to our stocked trucks

“Your A/C running doesn’t mean your A/C is working. There’s a difference between a system that’s on and a system that’s actually doing its job.”

5 Reasons Your House Stays Humid With the A/C On

The symptom is obvious. The cause usually isn’t, and getting the wrong diagnosis means the problem comes right back.

1: Your System Is Too Big for Your Home: Very Common

This one surprises people. An oversized unit for your square footage cools the air so quickly that it shuts off before it can pull enough moisture out. The temperature drops, the thermostat is satisfied, and the cycle ends — but the humidity stays. This is called short cycling, and it’s one of the most common reasons a house feels cold and clammy at the same time.

Watch for:

• The house cools fast, but still feels damp and uncomfortable.
• The system turns on and off more frequently than it should.
• The air feels cold but is not actually comfortable.
• The problem has been present since the system was installed.

2: The Evaporator Coil Is Dirty or Frozen: Act Soon

The evaporator coil inside your system is what actually pulls moisture out of the air. When it’s coated in dust or has frozen over, it can’t do its job. A frozen coil is also a sign of a deeper problem — low refrigerant, restricted airflow, or a failing component — that worsens the longer the system runs in that condition.

Watch for:

• Ice is visible on the indoor unit or refrigerant lines.
• Weak or barely-there airflow from vents.
• Water is pooling near the indoor unit.
• The system is running constantly without bringing any relief.

3: Refrigerant Is Low: High Concern

Refrigerant is what enables heat exchange in your system. When the level drops — almost always due to a leak — the coil doesn’t cool enough to effectively pull moisture out of the air. Your house may eventually cool down, but humidity stays elevated. Low refrigerant also puts real stress on the compressor over time, turning what would have been a straightforward repair into a much larger one.

Watch for:

• Air coming from vents feels warmer than it should.
• The system runs significantly longer than usual.
• Energy bills are creeping up without explanation.
• A hissing or bubbling sound near the outdoor unit.

4: Your Ductwork Is Leaking: Investigate

If the ducts carrying cooled, dehumidified air through your home have gaps or separations, that conditioned air escapes into attics, crawl spaces, and wall cavities before it ever reaches the rooms you’re living in. Warm, humid air gets pulled in to replace it. Your system works harder trying to compensate — and the humidity stays put.

Watch for:

• Some rooms feel humid, while others are comfortable.
• Noticeably uneven cooling throughout the house.
• The system runs almost constantly during hot days.
• Energy bills are higher than they should be.

5: The Condensate Drain Line Is Clogged: Act Soon

The moisture your A/C pulls from the air has to go somewhere — it drains out through a condensate line. When that line gets blocked by algae or debris, water backs up. Some systems have a safety shutoff that stops the unit when this happens. Others keep running while standing water creates a humidity and mold problem of its own — sometimes spreading to the drain pan and surrounding areas.

About That Musty Smell From Your Vents

A musty odor when the A/C runs usually points to a clogged drain line or a dirty coil. Mold can begin growing inside ductwork and drain pans within 24–48 hours when moisture sits. That’s not just a comfort issue — it’s an air quality one, and it tends to spread if left alone.

Watch for:

• Musty or stale smell when the system kicks on.
• Water staining or rust near the indoor unit.
• System shuts off unexpectedly mid-cycle.
• Visible moisture or standing water around the drain pan.

A Few Things Worth Checking Yourself First

Before calling anyone, these are genuinely worth a look — and they take two minutes.

• Check your air filter. A clogged filter restricts airflow and can directly cause the coil to freeze. If it’s grey and dense, replace it.
• Check your vents. Make sure all supply and return vents are open and not blocked by furniture or rugs.
• Check your thermostat fan setting. Set it to “auto,” not “on” — running the fan continuously can pull moisture back off the drain pan and recirculate it.
• Look at the indoor unit. Any ice, visible moisture, or water staining nearby is a sign that something needs attention before it gets worse.

Still Feeling It? Let’s Find Out Why.

The symptom is visible. The cause usually isn’t — and the wrong diagnosis means you’ll be right back here in a few weeks. Our technicians will tell you exactly what’s happening, in plain language, before any work starts.

Getting the right diagnosis the first time is always cheaper than getting the wrong one twice.

If you’re shopping for a new air conditioner or heat pump, you’ll probably hear a lot about SEER ratings.

But in 2026, there’s another term you need to know: SEER2.

SEER2 is the current efficiency rating used for new central air conditioners and heat pumps. The higher the number, the more cooling the system can provide for the electricity it uses.

So, what is a good SEER2 rating?

For many homeowners, a system in the 15–17 SEER2 range can offer a strong balance of efficiency and upfront cost. Higher-efficiency systems can go well beyond that, but the highest rating is not automatically the best choice for every home.

Your climate, how often you use your AC, the condition of your ductwork, system sizing, and your budget all matter.

What does SEER2 mean?

SEER2 stands for Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio 2. It measures how efficiently an air conditioner or heat pump cools your home over a typical cooling season.

The U.S. Department of Energy introduced the SEER2 rating system in 2023 along with updated testing procedures designed to better represent real-world operating conditions.

In simple terms:

Higher SEER2 = greater cooling efficiency.

A higher-rated system generally uses less electricity to provide the same amount of cooling as a lower-rated system under comparable conditions.

That can mean lower cooling costs over time, especially in homes where the AC runs frequently.

SEER vs. SEER2: What’s the difference?

SEER and SEER2 measure the same basic thing: seasonal cooling efficiency.

The difference is how the equipment is tested.

SEER2 uses updated Department of Energy testing procedures, including conditions intended to better represent the resistance an HVAC system experiences when moving air through a home’s ductwork. Because the testing method changed, you should not compare a SEER number and a SEER2 number as if they use the exact same scale.

If you’re replacing an older system, you may see its efficiency listed in SEER. When comparing new equipment in 2026, look at the SEER2 rating instead.

What is the minimum SEER2 rating in 2026?

There isn’t one minimum SEER2 rating for every air conditioner in every part of the country.

Federal standards vary based on the type of equipment and, for certain central air conditioners, where the system is installed.

Indiana and Ohio

Indiana and Ohio are part of the federal North region.

For standard split-system central air conditioners, the federal minimum is 13.4 SEER2 for equipment subject to the current standards.

Kentucky

Kentucky is part of the federal Southeast region, where requirements for split-system central air conditioners are higher.

Current minimums are:

• 14.3 SEER2 for split-system air conditioners below 45,000 BTU/h.

• 13.8 SEER2 for split-system air conditioners at or above 45,000 BTU/h.

Heat pumps

Split-system heat pumps use a national standard rather than the same regional AC requirements.

The current federal minimum for a standard split-system heat pump is 14.3 SEER2 for cooling and 7.5 HSPF2 for heating.

Your HVAC professional can confirm which efficiency requirements apply to the specific equipment being installed in your home.

So, what is a good SEER2 rating?

Meeting the minimum standard doesn’t necessarily mean you’ve found the best system for your home.

Here’s a simple way to think about your options:

• Around the minimum: An entry-level option that meets applicable efficiency requirements and may have a lower upfront cost.

• 15–17 SEER2: A strong middle ground for many homeowners looking for better efficiency without automatically moving into the highest-priced equipment.

• 18+ SEER2: High-efficiency equipment that may offer greater energy savings and often includes more advanced system technology.

These are general shopping ranges, not official federal efficiency categories.

The right number depends on how much you’ll actually benefit from the additional efficiency.

Is a higher SEER2 rating always better?

Not necessarily.

A 20 SEER2 system is more efficient on paper than a 15 SEER2 system, but that doesn’t automatically mean it’s the better investment for your home.

Consider:

• How long you plan to stay in the home. More time in the home can give you more opportunity to benefit from energy savings.

• How much your AC runs. Homes with longer or hotter cooling seasons may see more value from higher efficiency.

• Your current energy costs. Higher electricity rates can make efficiency more valuable.

• Your home’s insulation and ductwork. An efficient HVAC system can still lose performance through leaky ducts, poor airflow, or a home that loses conditioned air quickly.

• The upfront cost. The additional energy savings should make sense compared with the additional price of the equipment.

Efficiency matters, but it is only one part of choosing the right system.

How much can a higher SEER2 rating save?

The greater the difference in efficiency between two properly matched systems, the less electricity the higher-SEER2 system should need to produce the same amount of cooling under comparable conditions.

But your SEER2 rating cannot tell you exactly what your utility bill will be.

Actual savings depend on things like:

• Outdoor temperatures

• Thermostat settings

• Electricity rates

• Home size and insulation

• Duct condition

• Equipment sizing

• Installation quality

• How often the system runs

That’s why claims like “doubling your SEER rating will cut your entire energy bill in half” can be misleading. SEER2 applies to cooling efficiency, not every source of energy use in your home.

Does a furnace have a SEER2 rating?

No.

This is an important distinction if you’re replacing a complete HVAC system.

Air conditioners use SEER2 to measure seasonal cooling efficiency.

Heat pumps use SEER2 for cooling efficiency and HSPF2 for heating efficiency.

Gas furnaces use AFUE, or Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency, to measure how efficiently they convert fuel into heat.

So if you’re comparing a complete furnace and air conditioner system, you’ll likely be looking at both an AFUE rating and a SEER2 rating.

What else should you consider besides SEER2?

SEER2 matters, but don’t shop by one number alone.

Proper system sizing

Bigger isn’t automatically better.

An HVAC system should be sized for the home’s heating and cooling needs. An oversized or undersized system can affect comfort, humidity control, efficiency, and equipment performance.

Single-stage, two-stage, or variable-speed operation

Two systems with good efficiency ratings can feel very different inside your home.

Equipment with multiple stages or variable-speed operation can adjust its output instead of operating at full capacity every time it turns on. Depending on the system, that can help maintain more consistent temperatures and humidity levels.

Installation quality

Even highly efficient equipment needs to be installed and set up correctly.

Airflow, refrigerant charge, ductwork, equipment matching, and other installation details can all affect how the system performs once it’s in your home.

Your budget

The goal isn’t to buy the biggest SEER2 number available.

It’s to find the system that gives you the right combination of comfort, efficiency, features, and cost for your home.

Are rebates available for high-efficiency HVAC systems?

They may be.

Utility companies, manufacturers, and local programs can offer rebates or incentives for qualifying high-efficiency equipment. Programs and eligibility requirements change, so check what’s currently available when you’re ready to replace your system.

Your HVAC professional can also help you identify qualifying equipment and understand which incentives may apply.

Choosing the right SEER2 rating for your home

A good SEER2 rating isn’t just the highest number on the equipment label.

It’s the rating that makes sense for your home, your comfort goals, and what you want to spend.

Start by comparing:

• The system’s SEER2 rating

• Upfront equipment and installation costs

• Expected energy use

• System features and comfort benefits

• Warranty coverage

• Your home’s heating and cooling needs

You shouldn’t have to sort through efficiency ratings and equipment options by yourself.

Peterman Brothers can evaluate your home, explain your options in plain language, and help you find a system that fits your comfort and budget.

Get an Estimate for a New HVAC System

Picking the right HVAC size is key for comfort, humidity, energy use, and how long your system will last. This guide explains what sizing means, what affects it, and how to find the right answer for your home.

Key Takeaways

• HVAC size = capacity. For AC and heat pumps, capacity is often shown in tons, and 1 ton = 12,000 BTU/hr of cooling.
• Charts based on square footage are just a starting point. Insulation, windows, ceiling height, layout, and climate can all make a big difference.
• Manual J is the best method. It’s the ANSI-recognized way to figure out how much heating and cooling a home needs.
• Ductwork matters for comfort. Even if your equipment is the right size, it won’t feel right if the ducts can’t move enough air. Manual D is the standard for duct design.
• Bigger isn’t always better. If a system is too large, it can turn on and off too often, which makes comfort and humidity control worse.

What “HVAC Size” Really Means

When HVAC companies mention “size,” they’re talking about how much heating or cooling the system provides, not how big the unit is.

• 1 ton = 12,000 BTU/hr
• BTU = British Thermal Unit (a unit of heat)
• BTU/hr = how much heat the system can add/remove in an hour
• Tons (cooling) = another way to express cooling capacity

So a “3-ton AC” is roughly 36,000 BTU/hr of cooling capacity.

Why Sizing Matters More Than You Think

A properly sized system does more than just reach the set temperature. It helps your whole home feel comfortable and consistent in every room.

If the System Is Too Large

Oversized systems often cool the area near the thermostat quickly and then shut off, only to start up again soon after. This is called short cycling and it can:

• Create temperature swings
• Increase wear from frequent starts/stops
• Lead to higher humidity because the system may not run long enough to adequately remove moisture from the air

If the System Is Too Small

Undersized systems can:

• Run for long stretches on extreme weather days
• Struggle to reach the set temperature
• Leave certain rooms behind, especially in multi-story homes

What Determines the HVAC Size Your Home Needs

Square footage matters, but it’s only one piece. A home’s “load” (how much heating and cooling it needs) is affected by:

• Ceiling height and layout (vaulted ceilings, open staircases, two-story designs)
• Insulation and air leakage (drafty homes need more capacity; tighter homes need less)
• Windows (size, efficiency, and direction they face)
• Sun exposure and shade (attic heat, roof exposure, tree coverage)
• Local climate (design temperatures and humidity)

That’s why two homes with the same square footage can actually need different HVAC sizes.

BTU and Ton Estimates by Square Footage

A lot of people start by looking for a “tons per square foot” answer. This can give you a rough idea, but it shouldn’t be your final choice.

A common rule of thumb for cooling is about 20 to 25 BTU per square foot, but you should adjust this based on your home’s construction and layout.

Cooling Size Ranges (Starting Points)

What Makes You Need More or Less Cooling?

You’ll often fall toward the higher end if your home has:

• High ceilings
• Lots of west-facing glass
• Weak insulation or noticeable drafts

You’ll often fall toward the lower end if your home has:

• Strong insulation and good air sealing
• Efficient windows and good shade

The Pro Way To Size Hvac Equipment

The most reliable way to find the right size is to use a process that removes the guesswork.

Manual J (Load Calculation)

A Manual J calculation measures your home’s heating and cooling load. ACCA notes it’s the national ANSI-recognized standard for producing residential sizing loads.

Manual J Looks At:

• Insulation levels
• Window types and orientation
• Air leakage
• Square footage and ceiling height
• Local climate data
• Internal heat gains (people, appliances, lighting)

Manual S (Equipment Selection)

After the load is known, Manual S is used to select equipment that matches the calculated load properly.

Manual D (Duct Design)

If a home uses ductwork, Manual D addresses duct sizing and design so the right airflow reaches each room. This is important because problems with airflow can make a system that’s the right size still feel uncomfortable.

What To Ask an HVAC Contractor

If you want to feel sure about your purchase, ask these questions to make sure the process is done right:

1. Will you run a Manual J load calculation for my home?
2. Can you show me the heating and cooling load results?
3. How are you matching equipment to those results (Manual S)?
4. Are you evaluating duct sizing or airflow (Manual D / airflow testing)?
5. If you recommend upsizing, what changed and why?

A good contractor should be able to clearly explain why they recommend a certain size.

HVAC Sizing FAQ:

• Is a bigger system always better?
  No. Oversized systems can short-cycle, which hurts comfort and can reduce humidity removal.
• Can I size an AC unit by square footage alone?
  You can estimate a range, but the most accurate sizing comes from Manual J.
• Do high ceilings change what size HVAC unit I need?
  Often yes. Higher ceilings increase air volume and can affect airflow patterns.
• If my ducts are leaky, should I just buy a bigger unit?
  Usually no. Duct issues can waste comfort and energy. Fixing airflow and duct problems often solves the real issue better than upsizing.

Bonus Tips Homeowners Can Miss:

• Ductwork can be the bottleneck. A system can be the right size, but if ducts are too small, leaky, poorly designed, or poorly insulated, it still won’t heat/cool well or efficiently—this is a common issue in many homes.
  
• Don’t assume “replace it with the same size.” Home improvements (windows, insulation, air sealing) and remodels can change what your home needs.
  
• Additions change the math. Finished basements, converted attics, sunrooms, and garage conversions often require a load recalibration (and sometimes updated ductwork) before selecting equipment.

Next Steps

If you need help choosing the right size, or if you already know what system you want and just need expert advice on the details, our team is here for you. We’ll visit your home, talk about your comfort goals, and use proven sizing methods like a Manual J load calculation to find the best fit. When you’re ready, contact us to set up an assessment and get clear, data-backed answers for your home

Why Catch HVAC Issues Early?

Your HVAC system doesn’t come with a dashboard alert—but it does give off early warning signs. If you catch them in time, you can avoid uncomfortable breakdowns, high energy bills, and expensive repairs. Most experts recommend servicing your system twice a year—once in spring and again in fall.

Regular maintenance boosts:
– System efficiency
– Comfort and air quality
– Equipment lifespan

It also protects your warranty and helps avoid sudden, costly failures.

1. Strange Noises (Grinding, Squealing, or Banging)

HVAC systems are meant to run quietly. If yours starts making squealing, rattling, or grinding noises, that could mean a loose belt, worn bearings, or electrical issues. Left unchecked, these can quickly lead to complete system failure or costly damage.

What to do: Schedule a professional inspection to catch the cause early—before it gets louder (and more expensive).

2. Musty or Burning Smells

Unusual odors are never “normal.” Musty smells could signal mold buildup in your ductwork, while burning smells may point to electrical overheating. Both can affect your air quality and safety.

What to do: Shut the system off and call for service. These issues are best addressed immediately.

3. Weak Airflow or Uneven Heating/Cooling

If certain rooms are harder to heat or cool—or the airflow feels weaker than usual—your blower fan, ducts, or filter may be the culprit. This can lead to poor performance and rising energy bills.

What to do: Don’t just crank up the thermostat. Let a pro inspect your system for blockages, leaks, or fan issues.

4. Short Cycling or Running Constantly

Short cycling (where your system turns on and off repeatedly) is hard on components and inefficient. Running constantly means something’s off with system sizing, insulation, or internal wear.

What to do: A technician can test your thermostat, refrigerant levels, and system calibration to fix the root cause.

5. Unexplained Energy Bill Spikes

Has your electric bill jumped without a change in usage? That’s often a sign your system is overworking—due to dirty filters, clogged coils, or a failing part.

What to do: Schedule a maintenance check to restore efficiency before your next billing cycle.

6. Water Leaks or Moisture Around the Unit

Condensate lines can clog. Evaporator coils can freeze. Either way, water leaking around your unit isn’t just messy—it’s a warning sign of deeper issues.

What to do: Shut the system off and call a technician before it causes mold or water damage.

7. High Humidity Indoors

HVAC systems help dehumidify your home. If your air feels muggy or sticky even when the system’s on, it might be failing to regulate humidity.

What to do: Have your system checked to improve comfort and indoor air quality—especially in Indiana’s humid months.

8. Frequent Repairs or a System Over 10 Years Old

If you’re calling for repairs more than once a year—or your system’s over a decade old—it might be losing efficiency and reliability.

What to do: Consider whether a new system would save more long-term than continued repairs

9. Thermostat Problems or Inaccurate Readings

If your thermostat isn’t responding, the temperature never feels right, or your settings don’t match performance, it may be miscalibrated, the system itself is lagging, or even in a bad location.

What to do: Let us check both the thermostat and HVAC unit to restore comfort and control.

10. You’re Not Changing Filters Regularly

Dirty filters are the #1 cause of preventable HVAC problems—they restrict airflow, strain your system, and reduce indoor air quality. But changing them is easy to forget

Enter: The Filter Saver Club

We created the Filter Saver Club to make filter changes completely hassle-free.

Here’s how it works:
– You tell us your system and filter size
– We deliver new filters right to your door, on your schedule
– No trips to the store, no forgetting, no stress

Why it matters:
– Keeps your air cleaner and healthier
– Protects your HVAC system from early wear
– Helps lower energy costs
– Extends system lifespan

It’s one of the easiest things you can do to prevent breakdowns—and it’s surprisingly affordable. Join now, and we’ll handle the rest.

When Should You Call a Pro?

If you notice:
– Burning or electrical odors
– No airflow or cooling
– Leaking water
– Loud or unusual noises
– Your HVAC runs but doesn’t cool or heat properly

…it’s time to call the experts at Peterman Brothers.

We proudly offer HVAC Maintenance Services across Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, and parts of Michigan, including routine tune-ups, complete diagnostics, and seasonal checkups.

Quick HVAC Maintenance FAQ for Homeowners

How often should I service my HVAC?
Twice a year—once in spring (A/C) and once in fall (heating).

How often should I replace filters?
Every 1–3 months, depending on usage and filter type. Our Filter Saver Club helps automate it.

Can I do HVAC maintenance myself?
You can handle filter changes and basic cleaning. But inspections, refrigerant checks, and electrical components should be left to pros.

Your HVAC system rarely fails out of nowhere—it gives signs. If you’ve noticed any of the ones we’ve listed, now’s the time to act. Catching problems early means lower costs, better comfort, and peace of mind.

👉 Schedule HVAC Service
👉 Join the Filter Saver Club

If your home has felt especially muggy lately, you’re not imagining it.

Many homeowners across the Midwest are noticing more humidity than usual this time of summer. Even with the air conditioner running, rooms still feel damp, and indoor air just doesn’t feel as comfortable as it should.

One surprising reason for this extra stickiness? A real weather effect known as “corn sweat.”

In this article, we’ll explain what corn sweat is, how it impacts the comfort of your home, and what steps you can take to maintain healthier, drier indoor air—all with the help of trusted solutions from Peterman Brothers.

What Is “Corn Sweat”?

“Corn sweat” is a nickname for a natural process known as transpiration. As corn plants grow, especially in July and August, they release large amounts of water vapor through their leaves into the air.

This is part of how the plant stays healthy and cools itself. But when you multiply this effect by the millions of acres of cornfields across the Midwest, it becomes a noticeable factor in our summer humidity.

In fact, one acre of mature corn can release up to 4,000 gallons of water per day into the atmosphere. With so much farmland in Indiana, Ohio, Illinois, and nearby states, this moisture builds up quickly and raises the humidity levels across our region.

How “Corn Sweat” Affects Summer Humidity

Why It Feels Hotter Than It Is

As the air becomes more saturated with moisture, your body finds it harder to cool itself. That’s why on a humid day, 80 degrees might feel closer to 90 or even 95.

This is especially common during what meteorologists call a “heat dome”—when high pressure traps hot, humid air close to the ground.

Corn sweat adds even more moisture to the mix, raising dew points by 5 to 10 degrees in some areas. The result? Hot, heavy air both outside and inside your home.

The Impact on Your Home and Air Conditioning System

Your air conditioning system is designed to do two important things:

1. Lower the indoor temperature
2. Remove excess moisture from the air

When outdoor humidity levels spike, your A/C system works much harder to handle the extra moisture. That can lead to:

• Sticky or clammy indoor air
• A/C running longer than usual
• Foggy windows or damp surfaces
• Musty odors or even mold concerns

Over time, this additional strain can increase energy bills and reduce the life of your equipment.

What You Can Do to Stay Comfortable

Everyday Tips for Reducing Indoor Humidity

• Run exhaust fans while cooking or showering
• Keep windows and doors closed during high-humidity hours
• Use ceiling fans to help move air throughout your home
• Monitor indoor humidity levels with a simple hygrometer (ideal levels: 40%–50%)

Still feeling the effects of excess moisture? It may be time to explore professional solutions that work with your HVAC system.

How Peterman Brothers Can Help You Feel More Comfortable at Home

At Peterman Brothers, we’ve helped thousands of homeowners across Indiana and the Midwest take control of indoor humidity, especially during the peak summer months.

Here are a few solutions we offer:

Whole-Home Dehumidifiers

A whole-home dehumidifier works with your existing heating and cooling system to remove moisture throughout the entire house.

Benefits include:

• Consistent comfort in every room
• Lower risk of mold, mildew, and musty odors
• Reduced strain on your air conditioner
• Protection for wood floors, furniture, and electronics

Learn more about our Dehumidifier services.

High-Efficiency A/C Systems With Humidity Control

If your air conditioning unit is older or oversized, it may cool the air quickly but fail to remove enough moisture.

Today’s variable-speed systems operate at lower speeds for longer periods, allowing them to reduce humidity more effectively while saving on energy costs.

Learn more about our A/C Install Services.

Annual AC Tune-Ups & Moisture Assessments

A simple maintenance visit can make a big difference. We’ll clean your coils, check your system for proper refrigerant levels, and ensure everything is working efficiently.

Regular maintenance helps your system:

• Remove moisture more effectively
• Last longer
• Operate more efficiently

Learn more about our AC Maintenance services.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is “corn sweat” really a major factor in humidity?
Yes. In the Midwest, the combination of cornfields and warm temperatures can significantly increase local humidity levels.

Q: What should indoor humidity be?
Between 40% and 50% is ideal. Higher than that can lead to discomfort and possible mold growth.

Q: Can a dehumidifier help reduce energy bills?
Yes. By removing moisture from the air, your A/C doesn’t have to work as hard to keep you comfortable.

Q: How do I know if my home is too humid?
Look for signs like foggy windows, musty smells, sticky air, or rooms that never seem to feel truly “cool.”

Peterman Brothers Customer Story: A/C Replacement

“This company is top notch! Finding a company that cares in today’s world is very hard. Every person that I have come into contact with from Peterman has been knowledgeable, kind, and made me feel important.

No one has been rushed while being here and they have made sure to explain things in terms I will understand. I bought a brand new air conditioning unit, called in a month later to ask a few questions, and someone was sent out to make sure everything was running perfect!

They go above and beyond to make sure you are happy. It’s unusual to find a company that is calling YOU!! Since they could not get anyone here for a week to replace the unit Jim brought me a window air unit to get me by on his day off! This shows they truly care about the customer.” 

— Stacey C., Indianapolis, IN

Ready to Feel Comfortable Again?

At Peterman Brothers, we know Midwest summers can be challenging. We’re here to help you stay comfortable with trusted HVAC services, humidity solutions, and expert advice.

Serving homeowners throughout Indiana, Kentucky, and Ohio. Find your nearest location.

Call Now | Book Online | Send a Message

⚠️ Fact: Most emergency A/C repairs happen mid-summer. Spotting the signs early can save you thousands—and keep your home comfortable when you need it most.

When your air conditioner starts acting up, it’s easy to overlook the warning signs. But ignoring them can lead to system breakdowns, expensive repairs, and miserable days in the heat.

Here are the five clearest signs your A/C might be headed for failure—and what can happen if you wait too long.

1. Your A/C Is Running, But the Air Isn’t Cool

🔍 Signs to watch for:

• The system is on, but your home still feels warm
• Thermostat settings don’t help
• Weak airflow from vents

Possible causes:

• Low refrigerant levels
• Dirty condenser coils
• Failing compressor

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Your A/C will run constantly without cooling your home, causing high energy bills and putting stress on the compressor. If the compressor fails, you’re looking at one of the most expensive HVAC repairs—or even a full system replacement.

2. Strange Noises Are Coming from the System

🔍 Sounds to notice:

• Grinding, squealing, or screeching
• Clanking or banging
• Hissing or buzzing

Common causes:

• Failing fan motor bearings
• Loose or broken components
• Refrigerant leak or electrical issue

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Mechanical issues tend to snowball. A failing bearing can seize the fan, a loose part can damage others, and refrigerant leaks can destroy the compressor. What starts as a small noise can lead to a full system shutdown.

3. Musty or Moldy Smells When the A/C Runs

🔍 Odors to take seriously:

• Damp or dirty smell when the A/C turns on
• Moldy air, especially near vents

Likely causes:

• Mold growth in the ductwork or coils
• Clogged condensate drain
• Poor drainage or excess moisture

🧬 CDC warns that indoor mold can worsen allergies, asthma, and other respiratory issues.

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Mold spores can spread throughout your home via the ductwork, reducing air quality and potentially harming your health. Moisture buildup can also lead to water damage or corrosion inside your HVAC system.

4. Your Energy Bill Spikes for No Clear Reason

🔍 Signs of inefficiency:

• Electricity bills suddenly rise
• No major change in usage or weather

Main causes:

• Dirty or clogged air filter
• Low refrigerant or coil problems
• System is straining to cool properly

📉 DOE recommends checking filters monthly and scheduling seasonal tune-ups.

What Happens If You Ignore It?

An inefficient system works harder to cool your home, driving up energy use and increasing wear on major components. Over time, this can lead to overheating, electrical problems, and reduced equipment lifespan.

5. Your System Turns On and Off Frequently (Short Cycling)

🔍 What to look for:

• A/C turns on, runs briefly, shuts off
• Repeats this cycle often, especially during hot days

Causes:

• Low refrigerant levels
• Oversized system
• Thermostat sensor issues

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Short cycling stresses your compressor and can cause it to fail prematurely. It also leads to uneven cooling, increased humidity, and skyrocketing energy use.

🚨 Bonus Sign: Water Leaks Around the A/C

🔍 Warning signs:

• Pooling water near the indoor unit
• Moisture around the drain line or pan

Likely causes:

• Blocked condensate drain
• Frozen coils melting
• Drain pan overflow

What Happens If You Ignore It?

Water can damage floors, walls, and ceilings. It also encourages mold growth and can trigger electrical shorts in your system.

Is Your A/C More Than 10 Years Old?

Systems older than 10–15 years are more likely to show signs of wear and are more expensive to repair. If you’re experiencing several of the issues above, and your unit’s over a decade old, it might be time to talk about replacement.

What to Do Next

The earlier you catch these signs, the easier and more affordable the fix. At Peterman Brothers, we’ll help you spot trouble before it turns into a major breakdown—and keep your system running strong all summer long.

📅 Schedule your A/C inspection today
We’ll find the issue fast, fix it right, and keep your house cool when it matters most.

Mini-Splits Explained: Costs, Benefits, and Use Cases

If you’ve never heard of mini-splits before, don’t worry—you’re not alone. They’re one of the smartest, most efficient heating and cooling systems you can install. Whether you’re struggling with uneven temperatures or looking to save on energy costs, a mini-split system could be your new best friend.

Let’s break it down together, starting with the basics.

What Are Mini-Splits?

At their core, Mini-Splits (also called ductless Mini-Splits) are heating and cooling systems that don’t rely on traditional ductwork to move air through your home. Think of them as the modern cousin of your old furnace or central AC—sleek, efficient, and easy to install.

A typical mini-split system has two main parts:

1-The Indoor Unit:

This is the part you see mounted on a wall or ceiling. It distributes warm or cool air into the room.

2-The Outdoor Unit:

Installed outside your home, it houses the compressor and condenser.

A small conduit connects these units, carrying power, refrigerant, and drainage lines. It’s a neat, compact solution that skips all the bulky ductwork.

How Do Mini-Splits Work?

Mini-splits use the same basic principles as traditional air conditioners or heat pumps. They transfer heat instead of generating it, making them incredibly efficient. Here’s a simple breakdown:

In cooling mode, the outdoor unit pulls heat from inside your home and releases it outside.

In heating mode, the process reverses. The system pulls heat from outside (even in cold weather!) and pumps it indoors.

It’s like magic but backed by solid science.

Why Do People Love Mini-Splits?

Why all the hype though? Mini-splits solve a surprising number of problems that traditional HVAC systems can’t.

Zoning Comfort

Ever notice how some rooms in your house are too hot while others feel like Antarctica? Mini-splits let you control the temperature of individual rooms or zones. That means you can keep the living room cozy without wasting energy on the guest bedroom nobody’s using.

No Ducts, No Problem

We get it, ductwork can be a pain. It’s expensive to install, prone to leaks, and takes up a ton of space. Mini-splits bypass all of that. A ductless system is a game-changer if you’re renovating an older home or adding to your house.

Energy Efficiency

Mini-Splits are incredibly efficient. According to the Department of Energy, they can cut heating costs by up to 60% compared to traditional systems. Why? No duct losses and smart zoning.

Quiet Operation

You’ll appreciate this if you’ve ever been jolted awake by a noisy HVAC system. Mini-splits are whisper-quiet—indoors and out. 

Heating AND Cooling

Need heat in the winter and AC in the summer? Mini-splits do both. It’s a one-stop shop for year-round comfort.

Use Cases: Where Do Mini-Splits Work Best?

While they’re versatile enough for almost any home, in these scenarios, they are king.

Room Additions or Renovations

Adding a sunroom, garage, or home office? Mini-splits are perfect for heating and cooling spaces that are not connected to your existing HVAC system.

Older Homes

Got an old house with no ductwork? Mini-splits let you enjoy modern climate control without tearing up walls or ceilings.

Uneven Temperatures

If you’re battling hot upstairs bedrooms or a chilly basement, mini-splits can fix those pesky hot and cold spots.

Energy-Conscious Homeowners

A mini-split is an eco-friendly choice to lower your carbon footprint (and energy bills).

Are Mini-Splits Right for Your Whole House?

Can mini-splits replace your entire HVAC system? The answer is, “It depends.”

As a Supplement

Mini-splits work great alongside traditional systems. If you’re only struggling with a few problem areas, adding a mini-split can save you from overhauling your entire HVAC setup.

As a Standalone System

Yes, you can use mini-splits as your main heating and cooling system—mostly in smaller homes or open-concept spaces. Just remember, larger homes might need multiple units for full coverage.

The Cost of Mini-Splits: Worth the Investment?

Mini-splits aren’t the cheapest option upfront but are a solid investment. 

Initial Mini-Split Installation Costs

On average, installing a single-zone mini-split costs between $2,000 and $8,000. Depending on how many indoor units you need, multi-zone systems (for larger homes) can cost more.

Operating Costs

This is where mini-splits shine. They’re far more energy-efficient than traditional systems, which means lower utility bills. Plus, many models qualify for tax credits or rebates, which can offset the initial cost.

Maintenance

Mini-splits are really low-maintenance. Regular filter cleaning and occasional professional servicing keep them running smoothly.

Mini-Splits vs. Traditional Systems: How Do They Stack Up?

Here’s a quick comparison to help you decide.

Common Questions About Mini-Splits

Let’s tackle some FAQs.

Do Mini-Splits Work in Colder Climates?

Absolutely. Modern mini-splits can operate efficiently even when outdoor temperatures drop below freezing. Some models are rated for temperatures as low as -13°F.

Are Mini-Splits Hard to Maintain?

Not at all. Cleaning the filters every month or two and scheduling professional maintenance once a year is usually enough.

Can I Install a Mini-Split Myself?

While it’s possible, professional installation is highly recommended. Improper setup can affect performance and void your warranty.

Now That You’re Informed Are Mini-Splits Still Right for You?

Mini-Splits aren’t for everyone, but they’re a nice solution for many homeowners. Whether you’re looking to tackle uneven temperatures, reduce your energy bills, or upgrade your home’s comfort, mini-splits deliver.

If you’re still on the fence, why not get a professional consultation? Most HVAC companies, including us, offer free estimates and can help you decide if a mini-split system is the right fit for your home.

In the end, it’s all about finding what works best for you and your family. After all, home is where the comfort is.

1.5-minute read

While we might never agree on the ‘perfect’ thermostat setting, one thing’s clear: where you place it can make a huge difference in your comfort—and your energy bill. 

Why Thermostat Location Matters

Thermostats come in many shapes, types, and levels of capabilities, but they all are the brain behind your HVAC. A bad spot can throw it off, spiking your bills or making things less comfortable.

Here’s everything you need to know to make sure your thermostat location is spot-on.

6 Rules for Ideal Thermostat Placement

1. Avoid Direct Sun
Sunlight makes the thermostat read warmer than it is, causing your system to kick on or off when it’s not needed. Place your thermostat away from windows or sunny walls.

2. Steer Clear of Drafts
Drafts from windows or doors make your thermostat think it’s colder than it is. Your heat may run too long, wasting energy. Stick it on an inner wall, far from doors or windows.

3. Pick a Central Spot
The center of your home, like a hallway or main room, gives a better average read. It’s less likely to be thrown off by hot or cold pockets in the house.

4. Skip Heat-Heavy Zones
Appliances like ovens, stoves, and even TVs give off heat, which can trick your thermostat into thinking your home is warmer than it is.

5. Think High-Traffic Rooms
Choose rooms where people spend the most time, like living or family rooms. These are the spots where comfort matters most.

6. Skip Bedrooms
Bedrooms have specific temperature needs that may not align with the rest of the house.

Bottom Line

The right spot for your thermostat is the key to comfort and cost savings. If you’re still not sure or need help installing a new one, contact us; we’ll be happy to help. A small move could mean a big boost in comfort and savings on your energy bill.

Do you ever wake up with an itchy nose, watery eyes, and sneezing that won’t quit? Yeah, me too. If you’re anything like me, allergies are your worst enemy. You don’t even have to step outside to start sneezing—sometimes, it feels like your house is out to get you.

Allergies aren’t just a seasonal nuisance—they’re a year-round battle if your home isn’t set up to manage them. The good news is that practical, proven ways to manage them exist.

The Most Common Culprits Behind Your Allergies

When people think of allergens, they usually think of pollen outside. Still, the real troublemakers are typically right inside your home. Understanding these common indoor allergens is the first step in combating them.

Dust Mites: Where They Hide and How To Reduce Them

Dust mites are microscopic creatures that thrive in warm, humid environments, which makes your bed, carpets, and upholstered furniture their ideal habitats. These tiny pests are one of the most common triggers of allergies. They feed on the dead skin cells that we naturally shed, and their waste products are allergens that can cause symptoms such as sneezing, runny nose, itchy eyes, and even asthma attacks.

To give you an idea of how out-of-control dust mites can get: a typical used mattress can have anywhere from 100,000 to 10 million dust mites inside. And it’s not just your bed—carpets, curtains, and soft furnishings throughout your home can harbor them.

One of the best ways to reduce dust mites is to wash bedding weekly in hot water (at least 130°F) to kill them and their waste. Additionally, using dust-proof covers on mattresses and pillows can create a barrier between you and the mites.

Love Your Pets, Hate the Dander? Here’s How to Minimize Their Allergens

As much as we love our pets, they come with dander. Dander consists of tiny flecks of skin shed by cats, dogs, rodents, birds, and other animals with fur or feathers. These particles can float in the air for long periods and easily cling to surfaces.

Even if you’re not allergic to animals themselves, their dander can irritate your respiratory system, worsening symptoms for those with asthma or other breathing conditions. The proteins in pet saliva, urine, and feces can also contribute to allergic reactions.

Regular grooming and bathing can reduce the amount of dander pets shed. To minimize exposure, it is also a good idea to keep pets out of bedrooms and off furniture.

Mold Management for Healthier Living

Mold is a type of fungus that grows in damp, humid conditions. It can be found in any home area where moisture is present for an extended time. Mold reproduces by releasing spores into the air, which can be inhaled and cause allergic reactions in sensitive individuals.

Mold allergies can lead to symptoms such as coughing, wheezing, nasal congestion, and eye irritation. In more severe cases, exposure can trigger asthma attacks or lead to respiratory infections, especially in people with compromised immune systems.

Controlling moisture levels is important to prevent its growth. This means fixing leaks promptly, using exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens, and running a dehumidifier in damp areas like basements. Regular cleaning with mold-killing products can also help keep mold growth under control.

If you think you have a significant mold problem in your home, it’s crucial to contact a professional mold remediation service immediately to assess the situation.

Large-scale mold growth can pose serious health risks and requires specialized removal techniques to ensure it’s safely and thoroughly eliminated.

Shield Your Home from Pollen

Pollen from trees, grasses, and weeds can trigger sneezing, runny nose, itchy eyes, and throat irritation. Pollen can easily travel into your home in clothes, shoes, or even through open windows and doors. Once inside, it can settle on surfaces and even circulate through your HVAC system, prolonging symptoms.

To minimize indoor pollen, change your clothes and shower after spending time outdoors, keep windows closed during high pollen seasons, and regularly clean floors and surfaces where pollen may settle.

First Steps to Reduce Indoor Allergens

Now that you know what you’re up against, let’s discuss reducing these allergens and creating a more comfortable living environment. These strategies aren’t just about making your home cleaner—they’re about improving your air.

Effective Cleaning Habits to Keep Allergies at Bay

Vacuuming and dusting are essential in maintaining a clean home. Still, they’re only effective if you’re using the right tools. Regular vacuums can stir up dust and allergens, sending them back into the air you breathe. A vacuum with a HEPA (High-Efficiency Particulate Air) filter is essential.

This level of filtration is especially important for allergy sufferers because it prevents the allergens from being recirculated into the air during cleaning.

When dusting, use a damp or microfiber cloth to capture dust rather than spreading it around. Also, remember to clean areas that often go overlooked, such as ceiling fans, light fixtures, and behind furniture—dust and allergens love to accumulate in these hidden spots.

Wearing a mask can also help reduce inhalation of the allergens that may get stirred up while cleaning.

Humidity Control: An Often Overlooked Powerhouse in Reducing Allergens

Humidity levels play an important role in allergens in your home. Too much humidity can lead to mold growth, while too little can cause dust mites to thrive.

A whole-home humidifier and dehumidifier can help maintain optimal humidity levels. During the winter months, when indoor air tends to be dry, a humidifier adds moisture to the air, making it more comfortable to breathe and reducing the likelihood of dry skin and irritated nasal passages.

Conversely, when humidity levels can spike during the warmer months, a dehumidifier removes excess moisture from the air, immensely reducing mold growth and dust mite populations.

By keeping your home’s humidity levels between 30% and 50%, you create an environment that’s less conducive to allergens and more comfortable for you and your family.

Healthy HVAC System = Heathier Indoor Air

If you’re serious about controlling allergens in your home, your HVAC system must be up to the task. Your heating, ventilation, and air conditioning system is the lungs of your home, and keeping it well-maintained is critical to managing air quality.

Clean Air Starts with Regular Filter Changes

Your filters trap dust, pollen, dander, and other particles as air circulates through your system. However, if they’re too dirty or clogged, they won’t filter as well and cause strain on your system, making it run harder than it should have to.

Standard filters should be changed every 1 to 3 months, depending on usage and the presence of pets or allergy sufferers. It’s also a good idea to make sure your home is using a HEPA-quality filter.

HEPA filters are designed to capture 99.97% of particles as small as 0.3 microns, making them the gold standard in air filtration.

Are Allergens Hiding in Your Ducts?

Your HVAC ducts are also important in maintaining your home’s air quality. Over time, dust, dirt, mold spores, and other allergens can gather in the ductwork, which can then be circulated throughout your home every time your system runs.

Regular duct cleanings are vital to remove these hidden allergens. By clearing out the buildup, you not only improve the efficiency of your HVAC system but can also greatly reduce the amount of allergens that can circulate through your home.

The Best in Whole Home Air Purifying Systems

If one tool in an allergy-fighting arsenal stands out, it’s the Reme Halo® air purifier. Installed directly into your HVAC system, it’s more than a conventional ultraviolet lamp filter because it actively improves the air quality in your home. Most air purification systems need to be more active or effective at meaningfully reducing pollutants.

How the Reme Halo® Works

Unlike standalone units that rely solely on air passing through them to destroy particles with its ultraviolet light, the Halo® creates ionized Hydrogen Peroxide molecules and sends them throughout your home. These molecules seek out and neutralize airborne contaminants, including allergens, bacteria, viruses, and even odors, wherever they are in your home.

The ionized particles attach themselves to dust, dander, and other airborne particles, making them larger and easier for your HVAC filters to capture. This process dramatically reduces the number of allergens in the air and improves the overall efficiency of your HVAC system. Studies have shown that the Reme Halo® can reduce airborne bacteria, viruses, and mold by up to 99%.

It also helps homeowners with pets manage pet odors and dander, making it easier to maintain a fresh-smelling and allergen-free environment.

Taking Charge of Your Allergies

Implementing the plans and solutions we’ve discussed—regular cleaning with HEPA filters, maintaining balanced humidity, using high-efficiency HVAC filters, and investing in advanced technologies like the Reme Halo —can make a huge difference. 

Work with a trusted HVAC professional to assess your home’s air quality and identify areas for improvement. Then, develop a plan that meets your specific needs and budget.

With over 30 years of experience in the HVAC industry, our family has seen firsthand how these solutions can transform a home’s air quality and improve the lives of those living there. Whether you need advice on upgrading your HVAC system, installing a Reme Halo, or exploring other options, we’re here to guide you.

Let’s make your home the comfortable, allergen-free space it should be.

Your HVAC system may account for between 10% and 20% of your home’s energy consumption. Your utility bill may spike even higher when temperatures are at their peak. Fortunately, there are practical ways you can manage the power your equipment consumes. Read on to learn how to best use your A/C unit in the summer.

1. Manage Your Temperature Regulation

Reducing the temperatures during the hot and humid season can be tempting. However, lowering the settings to below 70 degrees Fahrenheit will use the same energy to cool the building.

A/C professionals recommend a setting of 78 degrees to balance your energy-saving needs and interior comfort. Depending on your preferences, you can raise the temperature by a few degrees.

You can raise the thermostat settings to about 80 degrees when you’re away on vacation or at work. You can also set different temperatures in the morning and night when you sleep. The best way to manage your A/C is to use a smart thermostat.

A smart thermostat can have as many as 30 different settings. Some devices can even learn your daily routine and adjust accordingly. They can generate reports on energy consumption, which can help you determine the problem with your air conditioner.

2. Prevent the Buildup of Ambient Heat

You can keep your rooms cool by managing ambient heat from atmospheric and indoor sources. Direct sunlight shining into the house can increase temperatures significantly. Close the curtains or use shades, especially when you’re away from home.

Appliances can generate heat, increasing the cooling load for your air conditioner. Dishwashers, washing machines, and water heaters generate significant amounts of heat. You can limit those activities in the afternoon when the temperatures peak.

Turning off unused electronics will save energy and reduce the load on your air conditioner. The semiconductors in household appliances are known to generate heat. The longer you keep the devices on, the higher your utility bills will be.

It’s also essential to keep the thermostat away from places near heat sources. The device will modify its readings, which will influence the performance of your air conditioner. The best location is a shaded area away from sunlight, cooking stoves, or electronics.

3. Address Airflow Problems

Your equipment may fail to function efficiently due to obstruction and airflow issues. A simple routine maintenance task like cleaning or replacing your filter can optimize its performance.

You should also clear obstructions around the outdoor unit. You can shade the unit to prevent the influence of heat from direct sunlight, but branches, leaves, and even rodents may get lodged in parts of your A/C.

Also, ensure the vents are open and free from dust and debris. You can vacuum the area around the vents to prevent airflow obstructions.

4. Consider Zoning to Boost Energy Efficiency

Rather than trying to control the registers, consider zoning for your home. Zones are independent areas that your A/C regulates separately. Zoning systems utilize multiple thermostats and air handlers for different rooms in the building.

You can implement a zoned system with dampers or a ductless mini-split system. A ductless system does not require ductwork to transfer heat energy across the building. It employs refrigerant conduits to move the refrigerant between the indoor and outdoor units.

Ductless mini-split systems are suited for additions or after a home remodel. It’s the best way to extend air conditioning to an extra room in your home.

You can save energy and manage cooling more efficiently across different rooms by using air handlers or zoning systems.

5. Check for Air Leaks and Address Insulation Problems

Sometimes the issue is not with your air conditioner but with the heat losses in the building. Insulation and air leaks can impact indoor comfort and force your A/C to overwork.

For example, the ductwork in your attic may be subject to temperature fluctuations. The insulation must be in the correct grade and suitable for the local weather. Crawlspaces need a material with an R-13 value for optimal temperature regulation.

Your ductwork can also develop cracks and holes due to temperature variability and moisture. Some inconsistencies can arise during installation. As a result of those faults, you could be losing 40% of your equipment’s energy output. A routine maintenance service can address leaks and clogs in your ductwork.

The best way to pinpoint spaces with insulation or air leaks is to schedule an energy audit. Skilled technicians can find problematic areas that need upgrading or sealing.

6. Boost Your A/C Efficiency by Using a Dehumidifier

One critical fact about your A/C’s cooling capacity concerning humidity is that our bodies cool through perspiration. When you sweat, evaporation absorbs energy, so your body temperature drops.

But when it’s hot and humid, the moisture diminishes the body’s ability to regulate temperatures. You may decide to turn up your thermostat, but that will only overwork your equipment. Therefore, managing humidity increases the performance of your A/C.

The ideal humidity levels are between 30% and 50%. In the Midwest, humidity can be as high as 60%. A dehumidifier can reduce utility bills and enhance indoor comfort in the muggy, sweltering summer. It can also prevent moisture damage to your furnishings and other valuables.

7. Observe Routine Maintenance of Your Equipment

The best way to improve the efficiency of your cooling system is to observe routine maintenance. Repairs should be scheduled at least once a year. A busy household may schedule more tune-ups to reduce recurring issues with its A/C.

Organizing repairs as soon as you detect an issue is always advisable. But if you’re experiencing multiple faults, it’s a sign that your equipment has systemic problems.

Technicians can assess the faults and propose a lasting solution during the tune-up process. Neglecting necessary maintenance ensures a steady decline in air conditioning performance while energy use steadily increases.

Paying for the replacement of some components can be costly. You can also uphold the equipment’s warranty by scheduling routine tune-ups. That way, you won’t have to incur further expenses for parts. Many A/C maintenance programs offer discounts and guarantees.

Maintenance typically involves cleaning components, performing repairs, and refilling the refrigerant. Grime and dirt on parts such as the evaporator coil can diminish the system’s performance.

The tune-up service requires A/C professionals to ascertain that the system is in its best condition. Maintenance tasks reduce the risks of faults and extend the life of your equipment.

Contact Us

If you are looking to maximize your A/C unit’s efficiency and are in our area or just have more questions, you can contact us.